30 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Balenciaga Evening Overblouse

There were great ideas on our FB page last weekend while our fans were working through the detail to the #PatternPuzzle below.

From the first moment I clapped my eyes on this little beauty I have been deeply in love.  Never far from my mind, I had made several attempts to understand this self-drafted style.  Finally I have something to start with.  

23 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Paper Twist Tunic

We know this is an insanely busy time of year and would like to send a huge thank you to everyone who dropped by on the weekend for our #PatternPuzzle.  The shape below is what greeted our fans on Saturday morning on our FB page.

Below is my trade sketch as best interpretation of the pattern with the intention of cutting this tunic in a light papery taffeta to hold the sculptural effects of the twist.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

16 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Shift

Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.  

You can get the rest of the pattern making detail here on my well-suitedblog.

09 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - The Patent Blouse

Looking a lot like an origami batman, this weeks self-drafted #PatternPuzzle comes from some of the greatest minds of the 1960's - the inventors filing patents for the next best thing in clothing.

Extracting the detail from the funny little patent sketches was probably one of the most frustrating self-drafted puzzles I have ever put together.  It took me ages to make sense of the garment and the suggested shape for the pattern.  July 2019 - this pattern is now available on the website - The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL.

For more details in this blog post go to http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-the-patent-blouse

02 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Dior Draped Skirt

This treasure was discovered in the archives the The Metropolitan Museum along with thousands of other beautiful pieces.  Much to my surprise I discovered that it is a fairly recent design by John Galliano for The House of Dior in 1998.

For this puzzle the focus is on the skirt and not the tailored halter neck top.  The combination of the well organised waterfall drape at the back of the skirt and the free form drape in the front of the skirt was fascinating to me.  So like many of the ideas we develop in the Drape Skirts Workshop.

The pattern shape below was posted on our facebook page early Saturday morning.  

25 November 2013

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Skirt Patterns

This weeks #PatternPuzzle started with a post comment from Sharon concerning a popular twist skirt style she had seen on ebay.  The look of the garment is very much like a skirt version of The Hip Twist Top from earlier in October.  In developing the ideas for this puzzle it occurred to me that there are many ways to make a twist skirt pattern.  What came out of that process are the pattern images below that offer two ways to cut a twist skirt.

The sketches below give you an idea of the anticipated results of the different styles of twist.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

18 November 2013

Pattern Puzzle - The Pocket Drape

Last Saturday we all enjoyed a fab conversation about the #PatternPuzzle.  As a bonus Julie's friend, Lynn Hoffman, shared a fashion history connection with our puzzle and an 1880's polonaise jacket.  When posting the sketch of the puzzle I included images of the historic reference.  It is interesting to see how Lynn made the pattern shape connection with the drape and waterfall of these historic garments.

The design for this puzzle is in fact 15 years old.  

11 November 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Twist and Turnback Top

The #PatternPuzzle from last Saturday had a combination of mostly recognisable pieces, then at the bottom of the image that one rogue pattern that is so simple it could almost be anything.  Our puzzlers made short work of the top two pattern pieces and fell silent.  Many hours later, and after a quick prompt from us Evelyn and Mioara finished the puzzle off very quickly.
Many thanks to all the regular puzzlers, new puzzlers and the rest of our audience for coming by every Saturday to share the fun.

Our design featured below has a single twist in the front bodice, a turn-back drape on the front hem and a two piece back to maintain the empire fit that holds the bust twist in place.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

04 November 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Skirt Twist

The Skirt Wrap #PatternPuzzle on the facebook page on Saturday was fast and furious race with photo finish in the final part of the solution - the TWIST!  Congratulations to all the fans and viewers who turned up on Saturday for the fun.  Below is the image of the pattern shape, wrong way up.

With this weeks post of the pattern solution and details I firstly must apologise for the delay in posting.  It turns out my original pattern shape was not entirely accurate.  As I prepared this post I realised that the pattern shape would not necessarily achieve the fit I had sketched in the design drawing.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

28 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Jersey Top

There were some very interesting suggestions on Saturday for this strange set of pattern shapes.  Such a great turnout of our regular #PatternPuzzlers and viewers together.  Finally solved on Sunday morning by Mioara Cretu our stretch pattern making star from Romania.  

The sketch below is a trend research from 2009 for knitwear, Summer 2011.  

21 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Drape and Gather Jersey Dress

Of all the #PatternPuzzle solutions offered on Saturday I think I like Julie Eilber's the best - 'Some kind of Aussie Crocodile.'  Such a strange shape and definitely a challenge to work out.  But the gang turned up on Saturday and again on Sunday and solved all of the detail as a team.  

As one pattern piece for the front it is a strange and very wasteful shape.  Indulgent and fun for a one-of but not so acceptable for production.  

18 October 2013

My New Workroom Dummy

For the past few months I have been looking for a new workroom dummy with more realistic measurements (size 12-14) that my usual industry sample size 8.  It's great for the clients but useless if you want to work in more realistic proportions.

Don't get me wrong, I love my workroom dummy.  She is a great shape for clothing with a soft bust shape and a round derrière.  Unfortunately the company that made and sold these in Australia has closed, so I was reduced to trawling ebay for possible offers.  

There is one other supplier of new dummies in Sydney but a combination of high prices and unrealistic body shape really puts me off.

14 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Hip Twist Top

You don't need to be a genius to see I am still enthralled by twists.  Perhaps they really suit the whole idea of the #PatternPuzzle.  This type of jersey twist is not so unusual in the fashion ranges at the moment.  The small and unusual detail of placing the twist off centre is very appealing if not a little clever.

Our #PatternPuzzle fans, new and returning, had this weird pattern shape worked out by lunch time with the final twist in the detail.  

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

All the pattern making detail here:  Hip Twist Top
Buy the sewing pattern here:  Hip Twist Top Sewing Pattern

07 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Cowl Tee with Drape

Featuring on the #PatternPuzzle this week was another one of those tricky one piece patterns.  Fans worked all day and through the night to solve this one.  Not helped, I might add, by my 'armhole mishap'!  To explain:

I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway I didn't notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.

03 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Mioara Cretu

For the first time in the short history of the Studio Faro #PatternPuzzles we have our first ever fan submission for the weekly event.  Mioara Cretu, a textile teacher from Iassy, Romania submitted the fabulous pattern shape you see below.
Such a challenging shape had our #PatternPuzzlers staying back after school to solve the problem.  With collective zeal Julie Eilber, Alison Calderwood and Karen Vogelsang finally solved the puzzle early Wednesday morning.  Such stamina!

Mioara has a particular interest in clothing made a jersey and admires the Donna Karan idea of the 'one pattern dress' achieved by removing the side seams with clever pattern making.  

30 September 2013

Pattern Puzzle and follow-up to CarmencitaB Pattern

So it looks like the school holidays, here in Australia, have distracted my #PatternPuzzlers with other duties.  So we will be leaving last Saturdays puzzle up for a while to see if it gets any bites.  In the meantime this weeks post will be the follow-up to the CarmencitaB Dress.  

The original idea from CarmencitaB was to work out how to cut the pattern for the shirt dress sketched below, as an homage to an original design from Valentino. This wrapped shirt-dress features:
          1. A two-piece shirt collar. 
          2. A separate front strap for buttoning. 
          3. Wrap drape at CF waist with sash ties. 
          4. Soft pleats around waistline of full skirt.
          5. Double Back yoke and CB action pleat. 
          6. Shirt sleeve with button cuff and gauntlet placket. 

The pattern plan set out below is based on the fitted block and all pattern adaptations are featured in red.

23 September 2013

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Jersey

I believe we hit a record last saturday with the #PatternPuzzle.  Those puzzler fans had it solved in 50 minutes!  This is the image they were presented with at 9.00am Saturday morning:

It is the front of the dress, sketched below, featuring two single twists in the front of this jersey frock with a circular hem panel.  

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

16 September 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Draped Tee

The Draped Tee
Those #PatternPuzzlers are too clever by half.  They had it solved in two hours with only the lightest banter.    Ten out of ten for great spatial skills all of you!
The weird shape below is the front of a Draped Tee, ever so slightly upside-down!

The drape is set off to the right hand side of the front, with a boat neck and fairly straight forward sleeve.

09 September 2013

02 September 2013

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO SHRUG

A big thank you to everyone who contributed to our #PatternPuzzle conversation on Saturday.
Here is the anonymous shape that was posted on our Facebook Page.  A self-drafted rectangle with three notches - that's all they got!  And they were very creative with the information.  Have a look at the comments!

And this is the Vintage Pattern (Simplicity 8452) that started me off on a quest to make and understand how a simple, self-drafted rectangle shape becomes this elegant top?!?  I found the pic in Vintage Inspirations , a RedPointTailor Pinterest Album but no image of the back of the envelope!

26 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - TUCKED TEE

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape it is definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

The shape I used in Saturday's puzzle was solved quickly by Alison and Julie.  They had it worked out in just a few hours.

19 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO WRAP

Wandering around in Pinterest I repinned the images below from Red Point Tailor! to my #cuttthatfrock album.  I was fascinated with the strange little pattern diagram on the back of the envelope.  The images claim that this simple shape would make that wrap top and that you can wear it wrapped from the front or the back.  Mmmm... big claims for a simple shape and such sophisticated drawings!  Convinced I could scale this up to make sense of it, I imported the image in to illustrator.

Click through to my website for all the pattern making detail: RETRO WRAP

More on this later…..

12 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Soft Pleat Jacket

A huge shout out to all the FB fans who wrestled with the Pattern Puzzle this week.  A valiant effort all round!  First up the awkward shape that had everyone stumped.

If you turn the piece over and stand it up straight you can see that it is the front right side of this jacket with extra length added to the wrap to make the soft drape pleat between each button.  

05 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - 'Lady in Waiting'

A Development from the 'whiteonwhite' Trend
So here is the lovely coincidence.  After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development.  Also featured on my Trends on Tumblr blog along with many other trend developments.  I think I even shot some video footage???  Must look for that.....  
The design in question is in the centre at the top of the page and I have named it the 'Lady in Waiting'.

29 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Gather Top

On Saturday Karen, Marissa and Delwyn had a fun ol' time working out this simple but defying shape. Posted as the image below, the guesses were so close first time around for all.  Quite rightly it could be a collar or a sleeve but is in fact a gathered yoke as both Karen and Delwyn guessed.

See below the production sketch shows gathering all round the yoke shape, creating a slightly puffed, cap sleeve.  There is also gather in the 'V' neck feature and a loose cut caught by elastic in the hip area to create blouse near the hem.

22 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle from CarmencitaB

This week's Pattern Puzzle Story:
Last week I received an email from CarmencitaB regarding a slightly tricky pattern she has been puzzling with for a little while.  So I love a challenge and the results are in this post.

On Saturday

Firstly some picture references (from CarmencitaB) for the direction we are going in:

The style is a waisted shirt-dress with an interesting wrap detail at the waistline.  It is the wrap detail that requires our time and attention.  

19 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri' II

In this second stage the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.  The pattern making workshops at Studio Faro cover this exciting area of Jersey Twists.  Go to the website and have a look at the exciting workshops coming up in September and October.

Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toils in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.

Recapping on the last stage reported:
Alterations to the first sample included reducing the upper body length to refine the drape and tightening the hip fit so the twist will stay in place.  

18 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit II

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.

The pattern plan below is developed on a jersey kimono block that I have and the front and back plan are set out on top of each other.  

15 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit

The Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle - This strange shape was posted last Saturday on our Facebook page.  It is one of four pattern pieces that makes up the full garment.

In the production sketch below I have used colour to identify the placement of the mystery pattern piece in the garment.

08 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri'

At last I have a chance to test out some of the ideas in this wonderful book, 'Pattern Magic" by Tomoko Nakamichi.  Originally ordered from Tessuiti Fabrics in Surry Hills Sydney, this book, and the many like it, are full of challenging ideas.

In particular I am interested in the Twist, or 'nejiri', featured on pages 71-73.  You may remember we did a twist style in one of the recent pattern puzzles.  That was a half body twist and quite tight in fit. 

01 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Ruche Skirt with Fishtail

The strangest shape was posted for our Pattern Puzzle last Saturday.  I then spent the rest of the day playing like mad with Adobe Illustrator and have broken the pattern making process down into each individual step.  Hopefully in the next week or so you will see this posted on the website as a pdf download instructions.

Starting with the sketch: This is a idea from my Sketchbook from at least 3-4 years ago.  I believe I found it in a forecast magazine of that time (Textile View).  The design is elegant but may have some inherent problems to be dealt with in the first toile/prototype.  

26 June 2013

Pattern Puzzle Creation - Pattern Plan for the High Neck Fleece Jacket.

The last Pattern Puzzle generated some curiosity so I have decided to take it from the "what a great idea" stage to reality.  This will reveal all potential issues as we work our way through all stages of prototyping to the final sample.

To begin I have produced a Production sketch with clear front and back views.  For this patten I am using my undarted kimono block to begin my pattern plan.  When working with this block I tend to work the back and front on top of each other.  The reason is that so much of this block is the same front to back with the exception of the necklines and the shoulder/overarm line.  (If this is not clear please comment and ask - always, always happy to respond).  Pic below is the entire pattern plan, with more detail in the following pics.

Set out below are some photos with comments and notes.  

24 June 2013

Pattern Puzzle - High Neck Fleece Jacket

Had a great time on Saturday morning with Alison and Karen taking out the honours on the Pattern Puzzle.  Like our facebook page and be the first to see the Pattern Puzzle next weekend.
Slightly weird shapes in these pattern pieces made it a little difficult.  Can you work out the style before you scroll into the post and see the final sketch?

The pattern plan below shows far better the variation in the hem shape (including facing) and the development of the gusset.

04 June 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Three Colour Wrap Dress

Quite a challenge in the latest Pattern Puzzle from our Saturday morning  conversations on facebook.  This is the original puzzle and the sketch and pattern plan are pasted below.  Alison & Vivienne once again solved the puzzle with flying colours.  Great work!


All the detail here:  Three Colour Wrap Dress

Enjoy :)

27 May 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Draped Wrap Dress

Here is the solution and details behind the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle.

This is a sleeveless summer frock with a ruched wrap and full skirt.  The pattern has been developed on my fitted dress block that is available as a PDF download on the website.  Womens Fitted Block Sizes 6-16

20 May 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Triple Twist Jersey Dress

I'm really enjoying our regular Saturday morning Pattern Puzzles on our facebook page.  Here are the sketch, pattern plan and pattern pieces for the front of the dress.  Please note this style only works with my knit block and two-way stretch jersey fabric that is good both sides.

You'll find all the detail for this post on the website blog 'well-suited'.