29 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Gather Top

On Saturday Karen, Marissa and Delwyn had a fun ol' time working out this simple but defying shape. Posted as the image below, the guesses were so close first time around for all.  Quite rightly it could be a collar or a sleeve but is in fact a gathered yoke as both Karen and Delwyn guessed.

See below the production sketch shows gathering all round the yoke shape, creating a slightly puffed, cap sleeve.  There is also gather in the 'V' neck feature and a loose cut caught by elastic in the hip area to create blouse near the hem.

25 July 2013

Great Sites - Favourite Sources

My favourite Resources, Trend Forecasters, and Skilled Sewists are listed here.  I am gradually growing this list and adding more links.  Love to hear about your favourites.

Here are some select links to start with:

Trend forecast Australian style from Sydney based Scout.  Great visuals on the blog.

WGSN on tumblr:  Online, industry based Forecast Service.  Has wonderful tumblr blog.

Weekly Street trend reports for the Sun-Herald.  Fab blog about mens style in Sydney and the world.

Fashion-Incubator blog by Kathleen Fasanella

The Cutting Class
Great Pattern Making Posts!

The Centre for Fashion Design - Great Philosophy

Merchant & Mills UK
Unbelievable tailoring products - fabrics, patterns and trim.

The Sewing Directory has many, many useful links to sharpen up your sewing skills.  Based in the UK they run a whole bunch of creative workshops.

22 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle from CarmencitaB

This week's Pattern Puzzle Story:
Last week I received an email from CarmencitaB regarding a slightly tricky pattern she has been puzzling with for a little while.  So I love a challenge and the results are in this post.

On Saturday

Firstly some picture references (from CarmencitaB) for the direction we are going in:

The style is a waisted shirt-dress with an interesting wrap detail at the waistline.  It is the wrap detail that requires our time and attention.  

19 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri' II

In this second stage the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.  The pattern making workshops at Studio Faro cover this exciting area of Jersey Twists.  Go to the website and have a look at the exciting workshops coming up in September and October.

Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toils in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.

Recapping on the last stage reported:
Alterations to the first sample included reducing the upper body length to refine the drape and tightening the hip fit so the twist will stay in place.  

18 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit II

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.

The pattern plan below is developed on a jersey kimono block that I have and the front and back plan are set out on top of each other.  

15 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit

The Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle - This strange shape was posted last Saturday on our Facebook page.  It is one of four pattern pieces that makes up the full garment.

In the production sketch below I have used colour to identify the placement of the mystery pattern piece in the garment.

10 July 2013

DUNGAREES - Dogtooth to Denim - streetstyle to catwalk.

Sexy and practical?  Which is it?  There is more than enough evidence about to suggest a strong trend for dungarees and a necessary item in every denim range.  Features a simple colour palette of indigo, white, red and black.    The majority are made of denim but they are occasionally found in different fabrics - dogtooth and leather???  More images on #hotfashionitems.  
Who out there owns a pair?

08 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri'

At last I have a chance to test out some of the ideas in this wonderful book, 'Pattern Magic" by Tomoko Nakamichi.  Originally ordered from Tessuiti Fabrics in Surry Hills Sydney, this book, and the many like it, are full of challenging ideas.

In particular I am interested in the Twist, or 'nejiri', featured on pages 71-73.  You may remember we did a twist style in one of the recent pattern puzzles.  That was a half body twist and quite tight in fit. 

04 July 2013

Design Conversations 14 - Use your words!

Design Conversations beg the question:  Why another frock?  Yet we continue to make, collect and gather together things of beauty.  In the next few weeks the Design Conversations we have been posting on the blog will be shifting up a gear to include real subjects to broaden the conversation.

To start the conversation we ask:  
What attracts us to particular designs? 
And how do we analyse and understand this attraction to develop our product or better understand our own sense of style.

My first example (posted here from tumblr) has caused me to pause and reflect.  I don’t really like glittery eveningwear so much, yet I am strangely attracted to this outfit.  I have given it some thought and come up with the following:  

Statement Dressing

Cannes Film Festival 2013
Jessica Miller blogged by #yourmothershouldknow  

02 July 2013

Trend Confirmation - BLACKnWHITE

In all of my 30 years in fashion, trend forecasting has never been so easy!  For me, the best source of images and early-warning on up-coming trends has become the Tumblr platform for blogging.  Most of the Trend Forecast leaders are represented on tumblr.  Some have direct blogs - others work through bloggers.

These boards are the backbone to seasonal design development for the fashion industry.  The Fashion Deign Development workshop at Studio Faro focuses on building trends and using them to design fashion ranges.  This July there are special offers at Studio Faro for workshop bookings.  Visit the website, subscribe and be eligible to receive notifications of new offers.

Featured here is the BLACKnWHITE Trend running through all the ranges for evening and daywear.  Many thanks to the Tumblr Creatives who make this all possible - #yourmothershouldknow, #womensweardaily, #wgsn, #meninthistown, #slashandburn, #pantone, #etc....

Enjoy :)

01 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Ruche Skirt with Fishtail

The strangest shape was posted for our Pattern Puzzle last Saturday.  I then spent the rest of the day playing like mad with Adobe Illustrator and have broken the pattern making process down into each individual step.  Hopefully in the next week or so you will see this posted on the website as a pdf download instructions.

Starting with the sketch: This is a idea from my Sketchbook from at least 3-4 years ago.  I believe I found it in a forecast magazine of that time (Textile View).  The design is elegant but may have some inherent problems to be dealt with in the first toile/prototype.