29 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Gather Top

On Saturday Karen, Marissa and Delwyn had a fun ol' time working out this simple but defying shape. Posted as the image below, the guesses were so close first time around for all.  Quite rightly it could be a collar or a sleeve but is in fact a gathered yoke as both Karen and Delwyn guessed.

See below the production sketch shows gathering all round the yoke shape, creating a slightly puffed, cap sleeve.  There is also gather in the 'V' neck feature and a loose cut caught by elastic in the hip area to create blouse near the hem.

22 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle from CarmencitaB

This week's Pattern Puzzle Story:
Last week I received an email from CarmencitaB regarding a slightly tricky pattern she has been puzzling with for a little while.  So I love a challenge and the results are in this post.

On Saturday

Firstly some picture references (from CarmencitaB) for the direction we are going in:

The style is a waisted shirt-dress with an interesting wrap detail at the waistline.  It is the wrap detail that requires our time and attention.  

19 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri' II

In this second stage the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.  The pattern making workshops at Studio Faro cover this exciting area of Jersey Twists.  Go to the website and have a look at the exciting workshops coming up in September and October.

Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toils in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.

Recapping on the last stage reported:
Alterations to the first sample included reducing the upper body length to refine the drape and tightening the hip fit so the twist will stay in place.  

18 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit II

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.

The pattern plan below is developed on a jersey kimono block that I have and the front and back plan are set out on top of each other.  

15 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit

The Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle - This strange shape was posted last Saturday on our Facebook page.  It is one of four pattern pieces that makes up the full garment.

In the production sketch below I have used colour to identify the placement of the mystery pattern piece in the garment.

08 July 2013

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri'

At last I have a chance to test out some of the ideas in this wonderful book, 'Pattern Magic" by Tomoko Nakamichi.  Originally ordered from Tessuiti Fabrics in Surry Hills Sydney, this book, and the many like it, are full of challenging ideas.

In particular I am interested in the Twist, or 'nejiri', featured on pages 71-73.  You may remember we did a twist style in one of the recent pattern puzzles.  That was a half body twist and quite tight in fit. 

01 July 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Ruche Skirt with Fishtail

The strangest shape was posted for our Pattern Puzzle last Saturday.  I then spent the rest of the day playing like mad with Adobe Illustrator and have broken the pattern making process down into each individual step.  Hopefully in the next week or so you will see this posted on the website as a pdf download instructions.

Starting with the sketch: This is a idea from my Sketchbook from at least 3-4 years ago.  I believe I found it in a forecast magazine of that time (Textile View).  The design is elegant but may have some inherent problems to be dealt with in the first toile/prototype.