About two years ago, in a Draped Dress Patterns workshop, this jersey style came into being. A combination of Cowl and Twist Drape, it proved to be a fabulous idea for students dealing with their first ever drape pattern. Using a knit block for these early drape patterns is always a plus. There is never any question about... ' what to do with the darts!'
What a week ! A brand new set of workshops for Personal Block Development, and an amazing group of students with some surprising things to say. Firstly the new workshops: they're an addition to the existing program at Studio Faro and extend the scope of the basic and advanced pattern making workshops. They're focussed on allowing individuals the time and space needed to perfect their own block fit, before making the first fit toile. It's so disappointing and risky to attempt pattern making with an ill-fitting block.
The designs used in last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle conversation are the surplus design developments from the Layered Shirt post of a few weeks ago. They have been lying around on the work table all that time and I did't have the heart to throw them out. Then I realised that was because I really wanted these two tops for myself. They were just the kind of thing I needed in my wardrobe. Saved from the shredder, these designs are similar but different enough to entice you to make both. I will be dealing with them in two separate posts to make sure I cover all the detail. :)
The post is a little late this week as I am totally distracted by work that is going on in the backend of the website, setting up a members area. We have been working out the best content to make it both attractive and useful to fans and hope to open that members area very soon. Now back to the #PatternPuzzle that was such fun on Saturday with fans working getting to the answers super-fast. Then overnight, while I was asleep so many added sketches and photos and in one case an amazing mini-toile.
This week we have showcased #PatternInsights, where I share the light bulb moments in my pattern making career. In this shirt pattern development I am sharing two pattern making moves that early in my career caused me some anxiety. Anxiety caused by a lack of information and training. Thank heaven for my hero Natalie Bray! I am sharing the pattern moves needed to turn a basic fitted (dress) block into a loose-fit block and a basic set of moves to draft a gauntlet placket for a classic shirt sleeve.
The vintage inspiration for this weeks #PatternPuzzle has come from a pattern I found on the So Vintage Patterns website. Unfortunately, this one has been been sold but they have a mountain of great vintage patterns for all eras. I was attracted by the asymmetrically-set, diagonal seams with gathered drape. But not so much the button decoration. By adding the extra seams, I believe I have made it easier to construct, as they eliminate the corner seams. I have also reworked the back view from the original design to carry the front, diagonal seams through to the back dress.
Once again I am attracted to the loose-fit silhouette that is such a staple in most fashion ranges at the moment. And somehow I think it may also indicate a desire to bring my own wardrobe up-to-date. This cocoon shaped, gathered drape shirt would behave at its best if you were to cut it in a light, drapey woven such as silk satin or a crepe de chine.
This weeks puzzle is very much a summer weight shirt that I imagine is a cotton voile or organdie. The semi-transparent fabric is used I'm many layers (2-3) to create drape and subtle colour variation in the layering. The front opening of the shirt is a concealed, button front hidden under the front drape.
It never ceases to amaze me how often I am drawn to this particular style of cowl drape. You will find many examples in the #PatternPuzzles that have been presented here over the past few years. This puzzle stars with the simplest of shapes and become an elegant tunic top.
The #PatternPuzzle was quite a hit with our Facebook fans on Saturday. In many ways a straightforward pattern that yields fab results. Use any loose fit tee shirt block or pattern to make this fashion forward Twist Tee.
This week's #PatternPuzzle is the simplest addition to a classic pencil skirt. With the introduction of a front left side panel you are able to include the drape shape easily around the waist and into the panel seam.
Since the earliest of my pattern making days I have had a passion for the tailored femininity of vintage styling. And now that I have discovered an extensive online community that enjoys both fashion and vintage designs I am presented with so many beautiful options for our weekly pattern puzzle. I found this weeks inspiring image in a wonderful tumblr blog, The Tailors Desire, full of all things vintage. :)
You may be forgiven for thinking that we often torture the stuffing out of our fabulous #PatternPuzzle fans. Well, last Saturday was no exception. I did a slightly tricky thing with a 'grown-on hood' and it was enough to make the pattern shapes very hard to read. I have seen similar styles in both historic and current fashion and have waited some time to try this out on the blog. The idea I have is to cut this dress in a merino jersey. That could be either a one-way or two-way stretch jersey.
The Double Drape in the Maxi refers to the #CowlDrape on the back of this dress and the #GatheredDrape on the centre front seam. The hood styling may also be considered a #CowlDrape with the large tuck and the centre back line on the fold.
Inspired by a delicate sketch in my visual diary from many years ago, the Transparent Bomber Jacket is a summer season take on a recent winter trend for classic bomber jackets. This design will rely on a lightweight transparent fabric that will gather well with the elastic bands and still hold a soft, full shape.
As a general rule, capes and ponchos are not at the top of my shopping list. I know they are currently on-trend but I find so many of them to be either unattractive or impractical. We don't have cold enough weather here to benefit from the tradition wool cape with cozy hood or wrap. However the more recent lightweight, knit designs in shrugs and capes are probably a lot easier to wear and may even have a functional place in our trans-seasonal wardrobes.
Gil Brandao's patterns have a seductive quality in their simplicity and clarity. Often with pattern making instructions, simplicity is no more that an absence of information that can be finally very frustrating. Not so for Gil. His diagrams have all the required information. So much so that my inability to read Portuguese does not present a problem.
The simplest of shapes have a tendency to be the most difficult to solve in the pattern puzzle. When there are no recognisable patten parts (armholes, necklines, etc.) a huge amount of creativity is needed to make sense of the pattern shape. Each week our fans excel in their ability to work their way through the information, ask the best question and eventually win the day. :) They are the best!
At last the detail for the Saturday #PatternPuzzle is here! My apologies for the delay to our usual posting but I had a little trouble with the graphics. It was a wonderful round of creative answers and clever solutions that finally solved this puzzle. Our handkerchief Fold Dress is so named because it struck me that the construction of this dress is much like a handkerchief with the corners folded into the centre.
A huge thanks to all the fans that turned up on Saturday to play and watch the #PatternPuzzle. This weeks puzzle was less complex than most but potentially such a favourite for the wardrobe. Our post this week has in fact two versions of the Tucked Drape Top, the first with two large tucks facing each other on the front neckline the the second with one large tuck only in the front neckline.
It was a demanding #PatternPuzzle this week that ran live across all the different time zones and gave everyone a chance to join in. You can see by the pattern shapes below that the final move of adding the front side panel to the back side panel was just enough to make it a very challenging game. Huge thanks to all fans and friends for dropping by and making it a great day. :)
I finally has a chance to use some of the wonderful work in the Gil Brandao book. In particular this pattern hooked me from the beginning as it doesn't seem to make any sense. To start with the thing that looks like a dart is really an armhole? And that thing that looks like a sleeve is in fact a waist tie. As you can imagine I was looking forward to an interesting fitting.
Jump on over to our new blog location for all the detail in this post. We are gradually moving all the content over there and would love you todrop by and see what you think. You can connect with our RSS feed or follow on bloglovin'. See you soon. :)
This is the first of a new series of pattern making posts called #PatternInsights, that is me sharing the lightbulb moments of my pattern making career. Not quite as 101 as our #PatternFundamentals and no where near as complex as some of our #PatternPuzzles it will another opportunity to share. :)
Jump on over to our new blog location for all the detail in this post. We are gradually moving all the content over there and would love you to drop by and see what you think. You can connect with our RSS feed or follow on bloglovin'. See you soon. :)