19 December 2015

First Samples and Pattern Insights

There are two new blog posts on the website:


Join us on Facebook to get the heads up for new samples and blog posts.

Subscribe to the website and I'll keep you informed about workshops, new worksheets and blocks and pattern downloads when they are available.
Wishing you all a fabulous Festive Season! :)

05 December 2015

First Samples and Pattern Puzzles

Catch up with all the posts on the new blog, on the website!
Drape Tube Skirt
First Sample - The Dolman Coat
Asymmetric Cowl Drape

For the story of the week and all the pattern making detail for the jump across to our new blog location on the website.  See you soon!  :)


27 June 2015

Pattern Fundamentals - Cowl Twist Jersey

About two years ago, in a Draped Dress Patterns workshop, this jersey style came into being. A combination of Cowl and Twist Drape, it proved to be a fabulous idea for students dealing with their first ever drape pattern. Using a knit block for these early drape patterns is always a plus. There is never any question about... ' what to do with the darts!'

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.


For the story of the week and all the pattern making detail for the Cowl Twist Jersey jump across to the website blog.

09 June 2015

Pattern Puzzle - CJ Drape Skirt

This weeks pattern puzzle is an update of a Charles James drape skirt design.  I have used my Skirt Block to begin this development.


For the story of the week and all the pattern making detail for the C.J. Drape Skirt, jump across to the website blog.

19 May 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Wrap Layer Top #1

The designs used in last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle conversation are the surplus design developments from the Layered Shirt post of a few weeks ago. They have been lying around on the work table all that time and I did't have the heart to throw them out. Then I realised that was because I really wanted these two tops for myself. They were just the kind of thing I needed in my wardrobe. Saved from the shredder, these designs are similar but different enough to entice you to make both. I will be dealing with them in two separate posts to make sure I cover all the detail. :)


For all the pattern making detail for the Wrap Layer Top #1 jump across to the website blog.

12 May 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Hi-Lo Drape Shift

The post is a little late this week as I am totally distracted by work that is going on in the backend of the website, setting up a members area. We have been working out the best content to make it both attractive and useful to fans and hope to open that members area very soon. Now back to the #PatternPuzzle that was such fun on Saturday with fans working getting to the answers super-fast. Then overnight, while I was asleep so many added sketches and photos and in one case an amazing mini-toile.


For all the pattern making detail for the Hi-Lo Drape Shift jump across to the website blog.

04 May 2015

Pattern Insights - Loose Fit Shirt

In this shirt pattern development I am sharing two pattern making moves that early in my career caused me some anxiety. Anxiety caused by a lack of information and training. Thank heaven for my hero Natalie Bray! I am sharing the pattern moves needed to turn a basic fitted (dress) block into a loose-fit block and a basic set of moves to draft a gauntlet placket for a classic shirt sleeve.



For all the pattern making detail for the Loose Fit Shirt jump across to the website blog.

27 April 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Vintage Update

The vintage inspiration for this weeks #PatternPuzzle has come from a pattern I found on the So Vintage Patterns website.  Unfortunately, this one has been been sold but they have a mountain of great vintage patterns for all eras.  I was attracted by the asymmetrically-set, diagonal seams with gathered drape.  But not so much the button decoration.  By adding the extra seams, I believe I have made it easier to construct, as they eliminate the corner seams.  I have also reworked the back view from the original design to carry the front, diagonal seams through to the back dress.


For all the pattern making detail for the Vintage Update jump across to the website blog.

20 April 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Gathered Shirt

Once again I am attracted to the loose-fit silhouette that is such a staple in most fashion ranges at the moment.  And somehow I think it may also indicate a desire to bring my own wardrobe up-to-date.  This cocoon shaped, gathered drape shirt would behave at its best if you were to cut it in a light, drapey woven such as silk satin or a crepe de chine.


For all the pattern making detail for the Gathered Shirt jump across to the website blog.

13 April 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Layered Shirt

This weeks puzzle is very much a summer weight shirt that I imagine is a cotton voile or organdie.  The semi-transparent fabric is used I'm many layers (2-3) to create drape and subtle colour variation in the layering.  The front opening of the shirt is a concealed, button front hidden under the front drape.


For all the pattern making detail for the Layered Shirt jump across to the website blog.

06 April 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Cowl Tee

It never ceases to amaze me how often I am drawn to this particular style of cowl drape.  You will find many examples in the #PatternPuzzles that have been presented here over the past few years.  This puzzle stars with the simplest of shapes and become an elegant tunic top.


For all the pattern making detail for the Cowl Tee jump across to the website blog.




30 March 2015

Pattern Insights - Twist Tee

The #PatternPuzzle was quite a hit with our Facebook fans on Saturday.  In many ways a straightforward pattern that yields fab results.  Use any loose fit tee shirt block or pattern to make this fashion forward Twist Tee.


If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

For all the pattern making detail for the Twist Tee jump across to the website blog.

23 March 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Skirt

This week's #PatternPuzzle is the simplest addition to a classic pencil skirt.  With the introduction of a front left side panel you are able to include the drape shape easily around the waist and into the panel seam.


For all the pattern making detail for the Drape Skirt jump across to the website blog.

16 March 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Vintage Fancy

Since the earliest of my pattern making days I have had a passion for the tailored femininity of vintage styling.  And now that I have discovered an extensive online community that enjoys both fashion and vintage designs I am presented with so many beautiful options for our weekly pattern puzzle.  I found this weeks inspiring image in a wonderful tumblr blog, The Tailors Desire, full of all things vintage.  :)


For all the pattern making detail for the Vintage Fancy jump across to the website blog.

09 March 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Double Drape Maxi

You may be forgiven for thinking that we often torture the stuffing out of our fabulous #PatternPuzzle fans.  Well, last Saturday was no exception.  I did a slightly tricky thing with a 'grown-on hood' and it was enough to make the pattern shapes very hard to read.  The idea I have is to cut this dress in a merino jersey.  That could be either a one-way or two-way stretch jersey.

The Double Drape in the Maxi refers to the #CowlDrape on the back of this dress and the #GatheredDrape on the centre front seam.  The hood styling may also be considered a #CowlDrape with the large tuck and the centre back line on the fold.


For all the pattern making detail for the Double Drape Maxi jump across to the website blog.

02 March 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Bomber Jacket

Inspired by a delicate sketch in my visual diary from many years ago, the Transparent Bomber Jacket is a summer season take on a recent winter trend for classic bomber jackets.  This design will rely on a lightweight transparent fabric that will gather well with the elastic bands and still hold a soft, full shape.


For all the pattern making detail for the Transparent Bomber Jacket jump across to the website blog.


23 February 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Cape Top

As a general rule, capes and ponchos are not at the top of my shopping list.  I know they are currently on-trend but I find so many of them to be either unattractive or impractical.  We don't have cold enough weather here to benefit from the tradition wool cape with cozy hood or wrap.  However the more recent lightweight, knit designs in shrugs and capes are probably a lot easier to wear and may even have a functional place in our trans-seasonal wardrobes.


For all the pattern making detail for the Drape Cape Top jump across to the website blog.



16 February 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico

Gil Brandao's patterns have a seductive quality in their simplicity and clarity.  Often with pattern making instructions, simplicity is no more that an absence of information that can be finally very frustrating.  Not so for Gil.  His diagrams have all the required information.  So much so that my inability to read Portuguese does not present a problem.


For all the pattern making detail for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico jump across to the website blog.

09 February 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Back Dress

The simplest of shapes have a tendency to be the most difficult to solve in the pattern puzzle.  When there are no recognisable patten parts (armholes, necklines, etc.) a huge amount of creativity is needed to make sense of the pattern shape.  Each week our fans excel in their ability to work their way through the information, ask the best question and eventually win the day.  :)  They are the best!



02 February 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Handkerchief Fold Dress

At last the detail for the Saturday #PatternPuzzle is here!  My apologies for the delay to our usual posting but I had a little trouble with the graphics.  It was a wonderful round of creative answers and clever solutions that finally solved this puzzle.  Our handkerchief Fold Dress is so named because it struck me that the construction of this dress is much like a handkerchief with the corners folded into the centre.


For all the pattern making detail for the Handkerchief Fold Dress is on the website blog.

26 January 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Tucked Drape Tops

A huge thanks to all the fans that turned up on Saturday to play and watch the #PatternPuzzle.  This weeks puzzle was less complex than most but potentially such a favourite for the wardrobe.  Our post this week has in fact two versions of the Tucked Drape Top, the first with two large tucks facing each other on the front neckline the the second with one large tuck only in the front neckline.  


For all the pattern making detail for the Tucked Drape Tops is on the website blog.

19 January 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Vintage Booty Dress

It was a demanding #PatternPuzzle this week that ran live across all the different time zones and gave everyone a chance to join in.  You can see by the pattern shapes below that the final move of adding the front side panel to the back side panel was just enough to make it a very challenging game.  Huge thanks to all fans and friends for dropping by and making it a great day.  :)


For all the pattern making detail for the Vintage Booty Dress on the website blog.

12 January 2015

Pattern Puzzle - Gil Brandao Wrap Blouse

I finally has a chance to use some of the wonderful work in the Gil Brandao book.  In particular this pattern hooked me from the beginning as it doesn't seem to make any sense.  To start with the thing that looks like a dart is really an armhole?  And that thing that looks like a sleeve is in fact a waist tie.  As you can imagine I was looking forward to an interesting fitting.


Jump on over to our new blog location for all the detail in this post.  

05 January 2015

Pattern Insights - JerseyTwist Patterns

This is the first of a new series of pattern making posts that is me sharing the lightbulb moments of my pattern making career.

Now available as a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.