Showing posts with label bias cut styles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bias cut styles. Show all posts

07 May 2018

Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress

Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress

Congrats to Mioara and Gemma solving the Pattern Puzzle in just one comment!  I think I am going to have to up my game to give you all a bit more of a challenge.  This is just the kind of thing we do in the Draped Dresses workshop at Studio Faro.

Below is recent design development I have decided to use for the Pattern Puzzle this week.  The inspiration comes from Comme de Garcon frock I saw in the late nineties.  The image has always stayed with me.  I love their work.


I've updated the graphics and improved the instructions.  You'll find it all here on the website blog - Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress

26 March 2018

Sampling the Flare and Gather Dress

Every now and then I get an opportunity to sample up one of my Pattern Puzzle posts. This sample is from the Pattern Puzzle - Flare & Gather Dress, posted in June 2014. With all new design ideas for woven's I always make the first sample in calico.



Click through to my website blog for all the pattern making detail. 

20 October 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Classic Drape Dress

The idea behind this weeks #PatternPuzzle is to use a classic drape style to show how the fitting darts in your bodice block turn into drape according to design.  And to also have a go at making my pattern making technique clearer for everyone.



04 August 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Tuck and Panel Dress

Our fans made quick work of the #PatternPuzzle on Saturday morning.   In the end they realised that most of the design detail was on the back of this garment with the front remaining quite clean.


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

14 July 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Collar Extension

Saturday was fun with loads of great answers in our #PatternPuzzle.  The final piece of the puzzle was the 'long pointy thing' that had nearly everyone stumped.  The grown-on band collar is an extension of the front drape in this bias cut top.


You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.




07 July 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Shoulder Drape Tee

The Saturday #PatternPuzzles have featured many 'on-trend' fashion styles and this week is no exception.  The shoulder drape featured is currently popular and turns up in many fashion collections.  Our fans were excellent at spotting all the design detail and solving the puzzle.  When confronted with such a complex patterns my approach as a pattern maker is to divide the pattern making into several stages to some order to the job. 


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

30 June 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Turnback Thinking

The Double Turnback Drape is not especially new.  We have featured it twice in our #PatternPuzzles and although it's not the most challenging pattern to cut, it is so attractive in its simplicity.  


This particular design detail is featured across many fashion ranges and is relatively easy for the enthusiast sewer to interpret, using patterns they already have in their stash.  However its success relies heavily on two important features that we will make the highlight of this weeks post.


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

16 June 2014

Pattern Puzzle - The Draped Peasant Dress

Last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle pays homage to Yohji Yamamoto’s SS 2002 collection. Fans made very light work of our pattern pieces and had the puzzle solved by lunch time. Gloria Lucia Sandoval went to all the trouble of printing out the puzzle, cutting and assembling the tiny pieces to make sense of it for everyone. :)

The Draped Peasant Dress has a strong oriental flavour with a Kimono sleeve and a classic but restricted print & colour palette. Inspired by the back view of this Yohji Yamamoto (SS 2002) gown, this kimono styled dress features contrast fabric, a gathered neckline and waistline drape.


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

02 June 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Mioara Cretu Outfit #2

This weeks #PatternPuzzle is a thing of genius from our regular contributor, Mioara Cretu, gifting us the most baffling#PatternPuzzle of all time last Saturday.  Mioara teaches pattern making at a Romanian university and has a weakness for jersey one-piece patterns!

And for all our fans, you have done a wonderful job this weekend finding the answers to such a challenging puzzle.  Congratulations  :)  Now it's time to confess that I stared blankly at this puzzle for days when it first arrived.  The skirt I was able to work out but it was the twist in the top pattern that had me really confused.  


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

07 April 2014

Pattern Puzzle - The Wrap Drape Dress

This weeks #PatternPuzzle was a tough one!  When you look at the weird pattern shape we posted on Saturday, you are looking at the most complex pattern piece in the style.  In this weeks puzzle, in addition to the side seam drape, it's all about understanding the construction of the front wrap and how that relates to the CF seam.  It is a mock wrap in that it is secured at the side seams to create a more reliable shape.


All the pattern making instructions have been moved to the website blog here. :)

We love to hear from you so please leave you pattern making questions in the comments section below.
Enjoy  :)

31 March 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Double Drape Tee

A big thank you to everyone who came by our Facebook Page on Saturday to play the #PatternPuzzle. You were all able to identify most parts of the pattern but found the shape at the neckline confusing.  Once you turn the pattern up the right way you'll see the large open shape is in fact two pieces of drape that overlap.

This currently popular style is featured in many fashion collections.  The drape from the left side of the top tucks under the right shoulder drape and is attached into the right armhole seam.  Using the Knit Block I have set out the Pattern Plan below with the dashed lines indicating where the drape will be added for both sides of the garment.  


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

10 March 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Twist Jersey

Gathers, drape and twists in jersey seem to be the favourites for most of our fans.  This weeks challenge is no different, with this drape style that could be made as top or dress.  It is hard to imagine that the weird shape below would make the style sketched above.  Once again we have produced a one-piece pattern, eliminating the side seams.  


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

03 February 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Tuck & Gather

For the first time ever in the short history of our #PatternPuzzles it was solved with in the first answer.  Mioara  Cretu showed her pattern brilliance and described all the design detail in one go.  Another first for the Saturday morning #PatternPuzzle.  The design featured below is a draped dress with asymmetric seaming and the addition of drape for the tucks and fishtail.


You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.


16 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Shift

Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.  



02 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Dior Draped Skirt

This treasure was discovered in the archives the The Metropolitan Museum along with thousands of other beautiful pieces.  Much to my surprise I discovered that it is a fairly recent design by John Galliano for The House of Dior in 1998.

For this puzzle the focus is on the skirt and not the tailored halter neck top.  The combination of the well organised waterfall drape at the back of the skirt and the cowl drape in the front of the skirt was fascinating to me.  


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

18 November 2013

Pattern Puzzle - The Pocket Drape

Last Saturday we all enjoyed a fab conversation about the #PatternPuzzle.  As a bonus Julie's friend, Lynn Hoffman, shared a fashion history connection with our puzzle and an 1880's polonaise jacket.  When posting the sketch of the puzzle I included images of the historic reference.  It is interesting to see how Lynn made the pattern shape connection with the drape and waterfall of these historic garments.


You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.