03 February 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Tuck & Gather

For the first time ever in the short history of our #PatternPuzzles it was solved with in the first answer.  Mioara  Cretu showed her pattern brilliance and described all the design detail in one go.  Another first for the Saturday morning #PatternPuzzle.

The design featured below is a draped dress with asymmetric seaming and the addition of drape for the tucks and fishtail.

In the diagram below colour is used to relate the sketch to the pattern pieces.

And again below using the same colours to relate the pattern pieces to the pattern plan.


The detail in the pattern plan is as follows:
  • start with your fitted block for woven fabric.
  • mark in the new neckline and armholes for a sleeveless style.
  • mark in the asymmetric seaming.
  • include gape darts for the neckline and armholes.
  • mark directional lines for the placement of drape for the tucks.
  • intersect with bust darts where you can to use bust shaping in the tucks and gather.
  • eliminate the back shoulder darts.
  • develop waist shaping on the CB seam.
  • shape slightly under the seat on the CB seam to refine the shape.
  • add a 45 degree angle for the fishtail on the CB seam.

When you cut and paste this pattern it may be best to close all darts (bust, waist and gape darts) before cutting along the drape lines and opening up to  include extra fabric.  All the pattern pieces are set out below with the markings from the original pattern so you can see where the extra fabric for the drape is located.

If you would like to cut the pattern for this design please leave any questions you may have in the comments below.


  1. These pattern puzzles continue to amaze me! Thanks for your blog - I very much enjoy it!

  2. Thanks Nancy. I really enjoy this challenging end of pattern making and its so rewarding to find others feel the same. Thanks so much for listing my posts on your blog. :)

  3. спасибо-здорово-