10 February 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Jersey Ruche Dress

We had a fabulous #PatternPuzzle conversation last Saturday with four different players contributing to the solution of a complicated style.  This pattern shape is the front and back dress as one pattern piece for the body of the Jersey Ruche Dress.

 Jersey Ruche Dress

The sketch below illustrates ruching in the shoulder line and down the right hand side of the dress.  
Also note the sleeves have different treatment for the right and left side.  The right sleeve is a raglan style that includes the shoulder piece.  And the left sleeve is the regular set-in sleeve.

 Learn more about pattern making with my PDF worksheets.

 To begin with the pattern plan below I have selected my knit block for two-way stretch.  
  • My first move is to taper the side seams from the hip toward the hem by 2.5cm on each side.
  • Then mark in the asymmetric necklines repeating the shape from the front onto the back.
  • Mark in the lines radiating from the shoulder line to the side seam.  These lines are for the shoulder line ruching.
  • Mark in the lines radiating out from the right side seam across the body to the left sides seam.  These lines are for the side seam ruching.
  • Trace the shoulder strap shapes from the front and back to add to the sleeve head for the raglan sleeve.
  • Make a note of the measurement of the side seam so you have a guide when making the garment.

 Download my PDF Knit Block her.

Both front and back blocks are opened along the shoulder line for the ruching and along the right hand side seam for the extra fabric for the ruching.  In the centre of the hem, between the front and the back dress, the extra fabric should form some extra flare on the right side.

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On the final dress pattern shape mark in the line where you will be ruching the fabric back, to equal the length of the original side seam.  Please note that I have indicated the dress body be cut on the bias in jersey fabric.  This will place the majority of the drape from the ruching on the jersey bias and will achieve a more elegant drape in the dress.

 Learn more pattern making moves with my PDF worksheets.

Set out below are the two different sleeves for this style.  It is important you are clear with your cutting instructions when marking the pattern so you cut the sleeve the right side up (R.S.U.).

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If you have any questions about this puzzle, please leave a comment and we will get back to you asap.


  1. I really enjoy seeing these puzzles explained - I hope to put one into practice one of these days:)

  2. Thanks so much. Let me know when you try them out. Happy to answer questions anytime. Btw love your blog! :)

    1. Thanks :) early days with the blog, but enjoying it so far!