05 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - 'Lady in Waiting'

A Development from the 'whiteonwhite' Trend
So here is the lovely coincidence.  After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development.  Also featured on my Trends on Tumblr blog along with many other trend developments.  I think I even shot some video footage???  Must look for that.....  
The design in question is in the centre at the top of the page and I have named it the 'Lady in Waiting'.

Here is the production sketch that includes all front and back detail, ready for patten making.  In keeping with the original theme I would make this all in white, but create some interest by using three different fabric textures.  From the top down I would use a chiffon/georgette for the sleeves and yoke, stretch woven for the bodice and a soft sheen woven, probably bias cut (not too transparent).  You could choose to all silks or all polyesters depending on your price tolerance and laundering preferences.

Below is the pattern plan worked out on a dartless kimono block (knit or woven).  As always I have developed the plan with front and back on top of each other (old habit with this block).  Hoping this time the colour coding is a little easier to read and not so confusing.  Please email if you would like me to produce a separate front and back pattern plan.

Worth noting that I have placed a waist dart in this unfitted block to help with the empire shaping (bodice).  The two measurements you need to locate the bust point and then the waist dart are:
1.  front length to bust point and
2.  bust separation.
You can use these measurements to locate the bust point and build a waist dart that helps develop the empire shape and profile.  Again, probably too much detail for this post, but do email if you would like to know more.

The delightfully confusing pattern piece I used in the Pattern Puzzle is below.  This piece is the sleeve, all-in-one with the upper bodice, front and back.  The extra fabric in the neckline will be gathered up with a drawstring (see the sketch above).  I would probably cut this part of the garment in a semi-transparent chiffon or georgette.  Cutting it on the bias will help the gather and the sleeve  to drape well.

While developing the pattern plan I decided that the bodice panels would be great in a stretch woven making the firmer fit more comfortable.  Also may eliminate the need for a zip opening.


The front and back skirt panels have been flared toward the hem for fullness, without any fullness under the bust.  I would most likely cut the skirts on the bias as long as the fabric is stable enough.

If anyone would like to discuss the seam allowances or construction for this style or any of the other Pattern Puzzle please don't hesitate to email me for more detail.

If you find you are liking the methods I use to develop patterns then consider enrolling in one of the Introductory Workshops coming up at the end of September.

Enjoy :)