26 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - TUCKED TEE

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape it is definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

The shape I used in Saturday's puzzle was solved quickly by Alison and Julie.  They had it worked out in just a few hours.

Here is the production sketch to go with the this new style.  I recommend a light weight single jersey with a silky handle.  Many of the rayon family would do fine - modal, viscose, tencel, etc.  No elastane required in this particular fit.

Keep in mind that this style has not been tested and that these instructions are only the beginning of the process.  I would expect to make at least one toile to get this style right and would happily make two to get the best fit.  Simple shapes are often the hardest to cut well.

The first step would be to get your knit block and loosen it up a little in the fit.  
The pattern plan:
Open up the neck (1-1.5cm), extend the shoulder line (2cm) and drop the underarm point (3cm down and 2cm wider) to loosen the fit on your knit block.  The hip measurement should be at least 6cm greater than your body measurement to maintain he loose drape fit.  Drop the sleeve head and the top arm line and make the sleeve wider to get the drape effect.

The back tunic and the sleeve of the pattern are fairly straight forward to copy and add seam allowances.  You will also need a bind for the neckline to finish 1cm wide.  The front tunic pattern is where all the interesting work happens.

The front has been opened up to include a huge drape/fold of fabric.  I think it is important to include the armhole in this drape as the armhole seam will secure the weight of the extra fabric.  At this early stage I only have one additional note - in my experience the diagonal fold in the drape will grow in length on the bias.  I recommend you reduce the length of the fold by 5-6cm.

Who is interested in testing this style with me?  Do you have your own knit block?  

This and many more interesting styles to be made in the Studio Faro workshops.  There is an Introductory Intensive this September/October featuring all of our Design, Drawing and Pattern workshops that are suitable for all skill levels. Book online or email the studio for more info.
Enjoy :)


  1. This dress design intrigues me. My pencil skirt is perfect - I'll send you a photo soon.

  2. Would love to see your pencil skirt. I'll let you know if I have a chance to proof this one. :)

  3. This is so funny pattern manipulation ... I think I will make it... Good reason for fabric shopping...:-)

  4. Hi RedPointTailor. I think I will also make this one. I see it in a slinky single jersey as tunic top over skinny jeans. I'm going downstairs (my studio above a fabric shop! :/) to see if they have any. Also want to make evening version of yesterday's puzzle - something with a little bling I think. Hope you are having a great weekend. Anita