12 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Soft Pleat Jacket

A huge shout out to all the FB fans who wrestled with the Pattern Puzzle this week.  A valiant effort all round!  First up the awkward shape that had everyone stumped.

If you turn the piece over and stand it up straight you can see that it is the front right side of this jacket with extra length added to the wrap to make the soft drape pleat between each button.  

The pattern plan below is based on a loose kimono jacket fit.  I have added a built up neckline, side body panels (front & back) and cuffs and pockets with a slightly wider profile.  The front right side of the jacket is opened up to make the waterfall style drape buttoning.  The extra fabric can be pressed into pleats or you could get inside the facing and gently tack those soft folds together.  When the jacket is left open the right side will behave very differently to the left and give a strong asymmetric look to the garment.

The pattern pieces are set out below with different right and left fronts, the side front and side back panels and the centre back panel.  Sleeve, cuff and pocket are featured at the top.

Because the fronts are so different you will see below that the same applies to the facings.  Probably the one most important thing here is the cutting instructions for each of these four pieces.  With the way I have laid out the pattern pieces here, all are placed right side up for better understanding.  Cutting instructions for each piece would be Cut 1 Only R.S.U. (Right Side Up).  And for the facings you would add fusible interlining.  Back Facing would be Cut 1 Pair.

The pattern making style and complexity you see here is very much like the work we get into in the Advanced Workshops at Studio Faro later in the year. 
In this post I have added the briefest of pattern making detail.  If you would like more information regarding this style leave a comment and I will provide more detail.
Enjoy :)


  1. I LOVE this jacket!! I just don't know how I would transfer you sketches into a working pattern that I could use. Any pointers? Sorry, I'm a beginner.

  2. Hi Michelle, great to hear from you. No need to be sorry, this is a complex pattern to make and most suited to sewers with intermediate experience at least. So far it has been very popular and with a little luck and more hours in the day I will produce either a fully detailed set of patternmaking instructions or the pattern itself as a download.

    I am only at the beginning of building my pattern making instructions as downloadable PDF's. So much more to come. There is a worksheet on the website for beginners to make a skirt block. Perhaps that would be a good place to start? Always happy to answer questions as you go along.