10 June 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Off-the-shoulder Twist Top

Off-the-shoulder Twist Top - PATTERN & PATTERN PLAN

The detailed solution to Saturday's Pattern Puzzle.  Using a Studio Faro knit block I trace out the front and back blocks with side seams facing each other with a minimum 6cm gap.  Also trace out the knit sleeve that belongs to the block.  Following are the briefest details of the pattern plan.  Email me if you have any questions.

PATTERN PLAN - In this order:  BODY - Trace your knit block (two-way stretch) and mark in the neckline and folded band,  use neckline measurements to draft up the neckband (folded), drop the underarm points and increase the width of the top at the underarm point, drop the side seam straight to the hem, increase the length of the top.  SLEEVE - Trace out the knit sleeve block, mark top of sleeve head to match neck band on bodice, drop the top arm line and underarm point as bodice, measure and select the three-quarter length of the sleeve.

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This large, apparently simple pattern shape is the main pattern piece for a self-lined jersey mesh top.  Two-way stretch only!  Have a close look at the way the armholes and necklines are set out (double notches are the back armhole).  There is a half body/circumference twist in the making of this garment.  The sleeve is also self-lined but no twist.  The neckband is a folded pattern piece.
There is only one side seam and it is the first seam you sew.  Then fold the bottom up to the top with wrong sides together and right side of fabric outside.  It's at this point that you twist the layers in the body to make opposite underarm points come together (half-body twist).  Sounds a little tricky but once you have attempted this style you will see the simplicity of the idea.  Learn more in the Stretch Patterns workshop scheduled Sunday June 30.

Below is a very similar version of this idea with a lower, wider neckline.  I put this style through a small production run many years ago in this rich autumn floral stretch jersey net - very light and stretchy and ideal for this amount of twist.

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Enjoy :)

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