This weeks #PatternPuzzle started with a post comment from Sharon concerning a popular twist skirt style she had seen on ebay. The look of the garment is very much like a skirt version of The Hip Twist Top from earlier in October. In developing the ideas for this puzzle it occurred to me that there are many ways to make a twist skirt pattern. What came out of that process are the pattern images below that offer two ways to cut a twist skirt.
The sketches below give you an idea of the anticipated results of the different styles of twist. If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.The first sketch and pattern on the left is the single twist, and the sketch and pattern on the right are for the double twist. In the first we twist the lower skirt of the main pattern and in the other we twist two tail shape pieces and join them back to the skirt.
Starting with the Single Twist it would be reasonably safe to use a light weight ponti or double knit as both sides of the fabric have to be good for this style. The pattern plan locates the twist on the centre line with the idea of opening the lines up and adding extra fabric. You can get the instructions to drafting your own Skirt Block and Pencil Skirt on our website.
Cut and open up the left side of the twist adding extra fabric. Copy this shape, flip it once to the reverse side and join aback to the main pattern. With a single turn you will twist the lower front once and join the seam on the left side of the skirt.
The Double Twist pattern plan has the twist feature in the centre of the skirt using horizontal seams to allow the twist. With these complex patterns number al the sections on the plan so you can make sense of them when you cut and paste.
Open up the twist area adding extra fabric appropriate to the weight of your cloth. Use a two-way stretch knit to get the best results. Sew the hem (the centre curve) before twisting the tail shape pieces. Wrap the right tail over the left, then back under to join the seams.
The back skirt should be kept simple in these styles with most of the focus on the twists. Many ponti fabrics will take a dart well. In some cases it will be possible to fit the back without a dart. How you finish the waist on these skirts is flexible. If possible use a fabric that will allow you to pull the skirts on with out zippers and include some kind of elastic to hold the shape.
The results with these twist skirt styles will vary greatly with different stretch fabrics. Most important they are two way stretch to get the best results.
Let me know if you have any questions by leaving a comment or emailing me direct.