23 September 2013

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Jersey

I believe we hit a record last saturday with the #PatternPuzzle.  Those puzzler fans had it solved in 50 minutes!  This is the image they were presented with at 9.00am Saturday morning:

It is the front of the dress, sketched below, featuring two single twists in the front of this jersey frock with a circular hem panel.  

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.
As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double, or self lined.  Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.

The pattern plan below is based on a jersey block for two-way stretch fit.  A lot like a body hugging tee.  The back and the front are very similar with major differences in the neckline, shoulder line and armhole.  The solid red lines in the planning are seams or outside edges.  The dotted lines are for cutting, to open up the dress shape and add extra fabric.

These twists rely on a single turn (of the side body panel and front left shoulder) of the pattern piece to bring the matching seams together.  These are sewn to hold the drape in place. Extra fabric is added into the pattern to create the drape that comes out of the twist.   And it is also important to add some extra width that will get taken up by the twist.
I have placed the grain line in this pattern piece to maximise the bias drape in the direction of the twists.

The back pattern piece is reasonably straight forward with a cap sleeve and some CB seam shaping at the waist and just under the seat.


The lower skirt panel is circular to get the best out of flare without gathers or pleats.  With a pattern piece this shape the grain line can be almost anywhere.  It only becomes important if you have a directional print or pattern where you can plan how the direction works with the circle.

 I hope you all enjoy these pattern instructions for this new style.  Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions.  My notes are brief so I don't mind at all. :)
If you are interested in more of this challenging pattern making, our Advanced workshops will keep you on your toes!  Please remember these are new ideas and they have not yet been tried and tested.  Always make the first toile in similar (but much cheaper) fabric to the final sample.


  1. Thanks Maria. If only someone would arrange a 28 hour day I might get to test some of these styles. :)

  2. Thanks for a great workshop on Sunday. I love the double twist so much I might test it out - meanwhile I try some simpler dart manipulation techniques.

  3. I also had a great day. There is so much you can do with that dart transfer. Enjoy ;) Looking forward to organising a Sydney meet-up. Maria's keen!

  4. Very interesting modification of a pattern for jersey. It can make a dress and knit single layer (eg interlock, with the same appearance on both sides) or turning the fabric twice!
    Thank you for this beautiful pattern puzzle and wish you a wonderful day!

  5. Hi Mioara. Yes I think the knit single layer that is good both sides is ok if it has elastane/lycra/spandex. The two-way stretch aspect of the fabric essential. Are you thinking of trying the pattern? :)

    1. Of course, I want to try this pattern for a dress intended for festive days. When it's ready, I'll send a photo! But first we have to build the base pattern for my size and degree of extensibility of the fabric.
      Can I send a proposal for a future puzzle pattern?

  6. Hi Mioara, yes I would love you to send in an idea for a Pattern Puzzle! Would you mind sending directly to me? Don't want anyone seeing it before the puzzle is sent out. My email - enquiries@studiofaro.com. Thanks, I am really looking forward to receiving your puzzle idea. :)

  7. I am seeing lots of interesting twist tops lately. I think I'll have a go at sewing a twist top already. Thank you for the post!

  8. Hi Lena. Yes they are fun to make and wear. :)