Pattern Puzzle - Balenciaga Evening Overblouse

From the first moment I clapped my eyes on this little beauty I have been deeply in love.  Never far from my mind, I had made several attempts to understand this self-drafted style.  Finally I have something to start with.  

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

Pattern Puzzle - Paper Twist Tunic

We know this is an insanely busy time of year and would like to send a huge thank you to everyone who dropped by on the weekend for our #PatternPuzzle.  The shape below is what greeted our fans on Saturday morning on our FB page.  Below is my trade sketch as best interpretation of the pattern with the intention of cutting this tunic in a light papery taffeta to hold the sculptural effects of the twist.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Shift

Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.  

You can get the rest of the pattern making detail here on my well-suitedblog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Patent Blouse

Looking a lot like an origami batman, this weeks self-drafted #PatternPuzzle comes from some of the greatest minds of the 1960's - the inventors filing patents for the next best thing in clothing.   Extracting the detail from the funny little patent sketches was probably one of the most frustrating self-drafted puzzles I have ever put together.  It took me ages to make sense of the garment and the suggested shape for the pattern.  July 2019 - this pattern is now available on the website - The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL.

For all the pattern making instructions go to my blog post - The Patent Blouse.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Dior Draped Skirt

This treasure was discovered in the archives the The Metropolitan Museum along with thousands of other beautiful pieces.  Much to my surprise I discovered that it is a fairly recent design by John Galliano for The House of Dior in 1998.

For this puzzle the focus is on the skirt and not the tailored halter neck top.  The combination of the well organised waterfall drape at the back of the skirt and the cowl drape in the front of the skirt was fascinating to me.  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Skirt Patterns

In developing the ideas for this puzzle it occurred to me that there are many ways to make a twist skirt pattern.  What came out of that process are the pattern images below that offer two ways to cut a twist skirt.

The sketches below give you an idea of the anticipated results of the different styles of twist.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.   The first sketch and pattern on the left is the single twist, and the sketch and pattern on the right are for the double twist.  In the first we twist the lower skirt of the main pattern and in the other we twist two tail shape pieces and join them back to the skirt.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Pocket Drape

Last Saturday we all enjoyed a fab conversation about the #PatternPuzzle.  As a bonus Julie's friend, Lynn Hoffman, shared a fashion history connection with our puzzle and an 1880's polonaise jacket.  When posting the sketch of the puzzle I included images of the historic reference.  It is interesting to see how Lynn made the pattern shape connection with the drape and waterfall of these historic garments.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Twist and Turnback Top

My design this week featured below has a single twist in the front bodice, a turn-back drape on the front hem and a two piece back to maintain the empire fit that holds the bust twist in place.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Skirt Twist

With this weeks post of the pattern solution and details I firstly must apologise for the delay in posting.  It turns out my original pattern shape was not entirely accurate.  As I prepared this post I realised that the pattern shape would not necessarily achieve the fit I had sketched in the design drawing.  This is not an uncommon problem when translating design drawings to actual patterns, which is why we often have to sample a couple of times to perfect the fit.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

All the pattern making detail here.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Asymmetric Jersey Top

The sketch below is a trend research from 2009 for knitwear, Summer 2011.  I'm usually not a fan of overtly asymmetric cutting and will always feel a little odd if one sleeve is so much shorter than the other.  But with this design I am strangely compelled to give it a chance.  I think it may look interesting using different knits for each of the panels.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Drape and Gather Jersey Dress

This is a typical Pattern Puzzle design that I have chosen specifically for the weird shape the front dress pattern piece can make.   As one pattern piece for the front, it's a strange and very wasteful shape.  Indulgent and fun for a one-of, but not so acceptable for production.  It is more likely that it would be cut in three separate pieces with seams hidden under the large drape tucks in the bust and hip area.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Hip Twist Top

You don't need to be a genius to see I am still captivated by twist patterns.  Perhaps they really suit the whole idea of the #PatternPuzzle.  This type of jersey twist is not so unusual in the fashion ranges at the moment.  The small and unusual detail of placing the twist off centre is very appealing if not a little clever.

Our #PatternPuzzle fans, new and returning, had this weird pattern shape worked out by lunch time with the final twist in the detail.  

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

Buy the sewing pattern here:  Hip Twist Top Sewing Pattern

Pattern Puzzle - Cowl Tee with Drape

I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway I didn't notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Mioara Cretu

Mioara has a particular interest in clothing made a jersey and admires the Donna Karan idea of the 'one pattern dress' achieved by removing the side seams with clever pattern making.

The front dress has a very subtle cowl with most of the interesting detail featured on the back view.  The back detail starts with an asymmetric neckline that leads to a twisted seam flowing from the back to the lower front dress.  Some gather/drape is developed at the shoulder blade level and both shoulder seams have been moved to suit the back styling and keep the pattern piece as one.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle and follow-up to CarmencitaB Pattern

So it looks like the school holidays, here in Australia, have distracted my #PatternPuzzlers with other duties.  So we will be leaving last Saturdays puzzle up for a while to see if it gets any bites.  In the meantime this weeks post will be the follow-up to the CarmencitaB Dress.  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

PatternPuzzle - Two Twist Jersey

With this design I'm showcasing jersey twists, using two-way stretch (four-way in the US) knit fabric.  The front of the dress features two single twists, with a circular hem panel and an insert fishtail godet in the centre back seam.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double (self-lined), or you use a double knit fabric that is good both sides.  Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Draped Tee

This weeks pattern puzzle is a draped tee with the drape is set off to the right-hand side of the front, with a boat neck and fairly straight forward sleeve.

Jump over to the website for all the pattern making detail.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - TWIST JUMPER

There are so many different kinds of twists in pattern making and I have dealt with a few in this blog.  These single twist styles have one major drawback and that is the fabric you use needs to look as good from the right and the wrong side.  I think this really limits your choices.  If you could get your hands on an extremely light weight double knit that would be fantastic.  You also have to choose your edge finishes (hems) to look good from the front and the back, as both sides are viewed.

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO SHRUG

Here is the anonymous shape that was posted on our Facebook Page.  A self-drafted rectangle with three notches - that's all they got!  And they were very creative with the information.  Have a look at the comments!  And this is the Vintage Pattern (now reissued as Simplicity 8452) that started me off on a quest to make and understand how a simple, self-drafted rectangle shape becomes this elegant top?!?  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - TUCKED TEE

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape, it's definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

Find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO WRAP

Vintage Curiosity to Self-Drafted Pattern Puzzle - Wandering around in Pinterest I re-pinned the images below to my #cuttthatfrock album.  I was fascinated with the strange little pattern diagram on the back of the envelope.  The images claim that this simple shape would make that wrap top and that you can wear it wrapped from the front or the back.  Mmmm... big claims for a simple shape and such sophisticated drawings!  Convinced I could scale this up to make sense of it, I imported the image in to illustrator.

Click through to my website for all the pattern making detail: RETRO WRAP

More on this later…..

Enjoy :)
http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited

Pattern Puzzle - Soft Pleat Jacket

This design has been developed using a kimono jacket block suitable for woven's.  If you'd like all the pattern making detail, jump over to the website blog.

If you turn the piece over and stand it up straight you can see that it is the front right side of this jacket with extra length added to the wrap to make the soft drape pleat between each button.  

https://www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - 'Lady in Waiting'

So here is the lovely coincidence.  After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development. There is even some video footage on Youtube showing everyone the design development process - Fashion Design Development - WhiteonWhite Trend 2014

Checkout the pattern making details on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Gather Top

My design for the Gather Top features gathers all round the yoke shape, creating a slightly puffed, cap sleeve.  There is also gather in the 'V' neck feature and a loose cut caught by elastic in the hip area to create blouse near the hem.  For all the pattern making instruction jump over to my website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle from CarmencitaB

This week's Pattern Puzzle Story:
Last week I received an email from CarmencitaB regarding a slightly tricky pattern she has been puzzling with for a little while.  So I love a challenge and the results are in this post.

Firstly some picture references (from CarmencitaB) for the direction we are going in:

You'll find all the pattern making instructions for the front of this dress on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri' II

In this second stage the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.   Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toils in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.

You'll find all the pattern making instructions for this new take on the Nejiri Twist. 

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit II

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Empire Cowl Knit

In making this pattern puzzle I'd use a knit kimono block.  If you don't yet have one you will find the relevant worksheet in the coming months.  The pattern plan in the post is for the front and the back of this garment and over the next two days I will be posting the 'bones' of the pattern making.  That is, all pattern pieces so you can see the manipulations to achieve all the detail in the style.

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Magic Twist - 'nejiri'

At last I have a chance to test out some of the ideas in this wonderful book, 'Pattern Magic" by Tomoko Nakamichi.  Originally ordered from Tessuiti Fabrics in Surry Hills Sydney, this book, and the many like it, are full of challenging ideas.  In particular I am interested in the Twist, or 'nejiri', featured on pages 71-73.  You may remember we did a twist style in one of the recent pattern puzzles.  That was a half body twist and quite tight in fit. 

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Ruche Skirt with Fishtail

Starting with the sketch: This is a idea from my Sketchbook from at least 3-4 years ago.  I believe I found it in a forecast magazine of that time (Textile View).  The design is elegant but may have some inherent problems to be dealt with in the first toile/prototype.  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle Creation - Pattern Plan for the High Neck Fleece Jacket.

The last Pattern Puzzle generated some curiosity so I have decided to take it from the "what a great idea" stage to reality.  This will reveal all potential issues as we work our way through all stages of prototyping to the final sample.

You'll find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog. :)

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - High Neck Fleece Jacket

According to the notes in my sketch book I had decided that this jacket will be cut in a wool Ponti (double knit).  Unfortunately wool ponti is hard enough to come by at all, let alone in these colours.  It would also be fantastic in a sports fleece which is more likely to come in a variety of colours.  Use your overlocker and contrast thread to make a 'seam cover' style hem to show through the facing shape.  I also love the idea of the collar facing and hem facing being cut in a contrast colour.

All the pattern making detail on the website blog.

Enjoy :)

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Off-the-shoulder Twist Top

Using a Studio Faro knit block I trace out the front and back blocks with side seams facing each other with a minimum 6cm gap.  Also trace out the knit sleeve that belongs to the block.  You'll find the rest of the pattern making information on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Three Colour Wrap Dress

Quite a challenge in the latest Pattern Puzzle from our Saturday morning  conversations on facebook.  This is the original puzzle and the sketch and pattern plan are pasted below.  Alison & Vivienne once again solved the puzzle with flying colours.  Great work!

 

All the detail here:  Three Colour Wrap Dress

Enjoy :)

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Draped Wrap Dress

Here is the solution and details behind the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle.  More pattern making detail on the website blog.

This is a sleeveless summer frock with a ruched wrap and full skirt.  The pattern has been developed on my fitted dress block that is available as a PDF download on the website.  Womens Fitted Block Sizes 6-22

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Triple Twist Jersey Dress

I'm really enjoying our regular Saturday morning Pattern Puzzles on our facebook page.  Here are the sketch, pattern plan and pattern pieces for the front of the dress.  Please note this style only works with my knit block and two-way stretch jersey fabric that is good both sides.

You'll find all the detail for this post on the website blog 'well-suited'.

Enjoy :)

www.studiofaro.com