23 June 2025
Body Twist Tee Sewing Pattern
At long last I've finished the PDF Sewing Pattern for the Body Twist Pattern Puzzle. It's a very large one piece pattern for the body of the garment with a double layer sleeve and ribbed neck trim. It's a soft and generous twist without being too tight. The construction is as simple as a tee-shirt without the need to finish any hems. Body and sleeves are double layers turned back on themselves. You'll find the history of this pattern development in these blog posts.
If you're thinking of making this sewing pattern you'll need to source some stretch mesh fabric. It's my favourite for the body twist tee. This design will also work well in light to very light stretch knit that has some elastane that's necessary for the twist to be comfortable. Stretch knit or mesh that is semi-opaque is particularly good as it emphasises the folded fabric layers in the twist.
06 April 2023
About my Dior Dress
It all began when I came across this fabulous Dior Dress from 2012, and decided it was the perfect idea for a classic dress design. Imagine a stretch bodice, that fits easily and is very comfortable to wear. Then add a very special skirt, using signature fabric. The simplicity of the idea was just so attractive to me. And simplicity is something I really admire in both the design and construction of fashion clothing. And now that classic simplicity is available to you with my new sewing pattern: The Dior Dress, available in 6 sizes, including detailed cutting and sewing instructions.
Checkout all the blog post detail on my website blog 'website'.
30 March 2023
Make the Most of Waste Fabric
If you have a single retro bone in your body you will have come across a circle skirt at some point in your sewing life. And they are fabulous, no question. However they have two possible drawbacks in the making. They are: you waste a lot of fabric and you always have to level the hem and in some fabrics that can be an ongoing process. In this post I will only be dealing with the waste fabric from cutting circle skirts. You'll find more information about Circle Skirts in my other blog posts.
Checkout all the blog post detail on my website blog 'wellsuited'.
23 March 2023
Samples of the Turnback Tee Drape
We've all seen this particular style over the past few years on the catwalk and in the shops. But unlike many fashion trends I think this one will be good for quite a while. It's so flattering with the distracting diagonal drape across the tummy and hip area.
I've featured this particular pattern making move twice on this blog: Twist and Turnback Top 2013,the Twist Jumper 2013 & Turnback Thinking 2014. I've also made a number of samples in the past few years, testing different materials and design details. I'm going to share those samples here and let you know which of the features and fabrics work the best for this design.
Checkout all the blog post detail on my website blog 'wellsuited'.
16 March 2023
Grading Women's Patterns
Although it may appear complicated, grading sewing patterns is based on a few simple rules with definite numbers added to very specific parts of the pattern for each size up and down the size chart. These rules are used in repeat for all garments within a category (mens, women's or children). The image below is of a black fitted dress block graded from Size 8 to Size 10 by cutting through the crucial grade points and adding the extra required to go up one size in the pattern. The white lines are these crucial grade points where the extra is added. It is the example I use in my pattern making classes to assist in the understanding of where patterns grow between sizes.
09 March 2023
Body Twist Tee Revisited
This is where it all started... The Off-the-shoulder Twist Top from so many years ago. This design was originally inspired by one of the dutch designers in a mens silk knit tee. It has graduated from a mens tee to an off-the-shoulder model to finally a boat neck tee style. It's this final version that I'm now preparing as an online PDF sewing pattern to add to the website. Make sure you're subscribed to my newsletter so you're the first to hear about the pattern release. You'll find the sign in box in the footer of my web pages.
Checkout all the blog post detail on my website blog 'wellsuited'.
02 March 2023
Drape Shift Rethink
The Drape Shift was one of my earlier #PatternPuzzle posts that popularised my blog in 2014. However the pattern making instructions proved to need much more work. I decided in my first sample to include a three-quarter sleeve to suit my own aesthetic. And to stay with the original one-piece pattern it needed and over-arm seam rather than an underarm seam. Although I liked and happily wore my first sample it wasn't anywhere close to the original design sketch.
23 February 2023
Retro Wrap Sewing Instructions
The Retro Wrap was one of my earliest Pattern Puzzle patterns and easily one of the all-time favourites. I've made the original pattern and all the adjustments necessary to prepare it for conversion into a PDF Sewing Pattern. And I do admit that working out the grading plan for this style was a huge challenge. When the grade document is returned I'll let you know if it was successful.
Checkout the full blog post details on my website blog 'wellsuited'.
16 February 2023
Testing the Twist Tee
The Twist Tee pattern puzzle was always one of the easiest versions of jersey twist patterns I've ever produced. You don't even need your own garment blocks to make this pattern. Any simple top or tee shirt shape pattern is a good place to start for this project. The sample I have posted here is the double twist version. It's possible to make this as a single twist pattern from the original post if you have access to the appropriate fabric.
Checkout all the post detail on my website blog.
23 July 2022
An Elizabethan Shirt
For a very long time images of the elizabethan shirt as a pattern or garment have fascinated me. I've always favoured patterns that use every bit of fabric as they speak of a time when textiles were considered to be of great value. A time when your household was judged by the quality of the textiles produced in the home and worn by the family and often sold to generate income.
15 July 2022
Working with my Corset Block
Fashion Corset v Historic Corset
There's a lot of talk around the negative aspects of wearing corsets but be assured that's not the whole story. My experience with corsets is strictly fashion industry and what I share here in the blog and through the product I have listed on the website is all derived from that experience. The articles and papers listed below will help you develop your understanding of the debate around historic corsets if this issue is of interest.
History of Corsets: the first wave of feminism - A reasonable introduction to the debate.
History of Corsets: the first wave of feminism - A reasonable introduction to the debate.
The Kurious Kase of Kim Kardashians Korset - A more thorough and academic investigation of debate around corsets.
Bust supporter & corsets. Copyright The Museum at FIT. Courtesy Google Arts & Culture.
Get all the detail on the website blog.
24 June 2022
First sample - Tucked Tee
If you have a look at this original post you'll see my thinking when I attempted this Pattern Puzzle. It appears so simple as an idea, but when testing the pattern I found it was like many other apparently 'simple' ideas, that is very difficult to achieve.
You'll find the rest of the post detail in the website blog. First Sample - Tucked Tee
27 May 2022
Wrap Layer Top #2
It's surprising what you find when you start digging around in old pattern puzzle files. This second version of the Wrap Layer Top has remained buried for over six years. The first version can be found here: Wrap Layer Top #1.
05 February 2022
Pattern Puzzles as PDF downloads.
Having these fabulous Pattern Puzzle designs on the blog with all the pattern making instructions is wonderful. But sometimes you might just want to try them out when the internet is down or simply not available to you. Or maybe you don't want to search through hundreds of posts to find what you're looking for. Either way I've had many requests for these instructions to be available as PDF downloads and I've finally done something about it.
These documents are PDF copies of the pattern making instructions that come with each of the posts. THEY ARE NOT SEWING PATTERNS, they are the instructions for you to make your own sewing patterns. I've put them together in response to your requests and I've made them downloadable for convenience and better access. In return all I ask for is a small fee to help keep the lights on.
I've started by working on my most popular posts first. Where I have cut the pattern and made samples there is much more information included and the PDF will cost more. If you have a favourite pattern puzzle and it's not featured please let me know through the comments section on the post in question and I'll get right to it.
29 August 2021
Join me on the New Website
Finally I have put together a new website using a platform that I finally understand. At the moment is has all the same content as my previous website with the possibility of delivering more pattern making training in the future.
This will be my last post on this blog. I have moved all the content to the new website. If you'd like to hear from me about new product or new blog posts then you'll need to subscribe to my newsletter. You'll find the subscription box in the footer of my home page.
I'm looking forward to some exciting new ideas for the coming year.
05 July 2019
Latest from Studio Faro
For the last few months, I've been focussed on getting more patterns and pattern making worksheets online. This post is a bit of a catch-up for those still connected to me via this blog. Each of the following images links to a new blog post on the website...
07 May 2018
Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress
Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress
Congrats to Mioara and Gemma solving the Pattern Puzzle in just one comment! I think I am going to have to up my game to give you all a bit more of a challenge. This is just the kind of thing we do in the Draped Dresses workshop at Studio Faro.
Below is recent design development I have decided to use for the Pattern Puzzle this week. The inspiration comes from Comme de Garcon frock I saw in the late nineties. The image has always stayed with me. I love their work.
I've updated the graphics and improved the instructions. You'll find it all here on the website blog - Pattern Puzzle - Transparent Tuck Dress
26 March 2018
Sampling the Flare and Gather Dress
Every now and then I get an opportunity to sample up one of my Pattern Puzzle posts. This sample is from the Pattern Puzzle - Flare & Gather Dress, posted in June 2014. With all new design ideas for woven's I always make the first sample in calico.
Click through to my website blog for all the pattern making detail.
14 February 2018
First Sample - Twist or Cowl Drape Shift
Well, it's been a long time since I posted this Pattern Puzzle - Twist or Cowl Shift Dress. And I've just rediscovered the sample photos to share with you. Here's the original image of the Pattern Puzzle to remind everyone where we started.
Click through to my website blog for all the sampling detail.
07 February 2018
My Drape Pattern Making Method
The origins of my passion for creative pattern making start way back in 1980 when I first went to fashion college. It was at this time that I was introduced to an amazing pattern making book that just lit up my brain. Natalie Bray's technical diagrams leapt off the page and made immediate sense to me. I could hardly contain my excitement at the potential of pattern making. To this end, I believe I was quite the pesky student in our pattern making classes. The student with 20 questions every session, that drove the pattern making teacher crazy. You'll find Natalie's books on all the usual bookselling sites and the prices vary dramatically, so do your research.
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