03 March 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Jersey Ruche Skirt

Last Saturday's #PatternPuzzle was one of those strange shapes that gave little idea of it's final shape.  But in true form our fans were able to solve the puzzle

The style we are looking at is a ruched, drape skirt that relies on the two-way stretch of the fabric to pull over the hips without a zipper opening.  
A light to middle weight jersey (180-250 gsm) is recommended in a silk or polyester fibre with an elastane content.   Some rayon jerseys would work but a cotton jersey may not drape so freely.  Be sure to use stretch fusible interlining in the waist band, with added elastic at the waist to improve recovery and maintain shape.

Using the skirt block, I have chosen the size smaller than my usual to account for the stretch in the fabric.  It is possible that you may need to go down another half size if the fabric has a lot of stretch.  As always choose a similar but cheaper cloth for the first sample/toile to perfect your fit before cutting your final fabric.  You can get the instructions to drafting your own Skirt Block and Pencil Skirt on our website.

The Pattern Plan below has the following changes:
  1. Working to the knee level in the skirt block, taper the side seams by at least 3-4cm each.
  2. Decide your hem differential between the front and the back and mark in corresponding curves that flow through well at the side seam.
  3. Mark in the shaped waistband with the intention of removing all darts.
  4. Mark in the design lines for the location and direction of the additional drape in the skirt.
  5. Remove the whole shaped waistband pattern, eliminating all darts.
  6. Cut along the drape lines and join the front and back corresponding pieces at the side seam.

For the final pattern, line up all your drape pattern shapes as below, with the CB's along a straight line, leaving approx. 3-4 cm between each piece for extra drape.  Clean up the outside edge of the pattern to create a smooth line for the gathers to make the drape.

The image below has some final detail for the pattern notations and cutting instructions.  

Hoping you all enjoy this new set of pattern instructions.  Let me know if you have any questions in the comment section below.

Enjoy :)


  1. I love this! What percent of stretch do you recommend for this style? I would imagine you'd want the wrinkles/drape lines to be fairly small so they don't make the wearer look too much larger, yes?

    1. I'm not so good at percentages but would describe the fabric as soft, fine/light weight and drapey. I imagined a light jersey with elastane (polyester or modal maybe). It is a close but not tight fit so I would use a block with 0cm ease for my first toile. You will get fine drape lines with this kind of fabric and the design lines are both distracting and flattering to most figures. I also think this style would be worthy of a maxi length interpretation. Do you think you will make one? If so pls we would love to see it. :)

  2. Grazie delle vostre informazioni

    1. My pleasure Naty. :) Have you been to the new blog location? http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited