10 March 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Twist Jersey

Gathers, drape and twists in jersey seem to be the favourites for most of our fans.  This weeks challenge is no different, with this drape style that could be made as top or dress.


It is hard to imagine that the weird shape below would make the style sketched above.  Once again we have produced a one-piece pattern, eliminating the side seams.  
However I think the practical/industry approach would be to make the pattern in three pieces, splitting it along the seam lines in the existing pattern.  As you can see from the image above the sports fashion cross-over is still a favourite.  It is one of those tops that would fit in to any environment as long as you got the fabric right.


The pattern plan is based on a close-fit knit block suitable for two-way stretch fabric.  The Drape and Twist feature on the front of the style have a dominant piece of drape diagonally across the front with gathered drape coming out from under the drape and going in the opposite direction.  The difficult thing to see with this pattern plan is that I intend putting a seam down the middle of the back of the main drape diagonal to hide the seams that hold the gather.  The neckline and raglan sleeve have fold back facings that form a square, boat neckline.  On both sides of the back the drape is continued over the side seam into the back.


When all the drape shapes have been cut and opened out they need to provide enough gather for the drape in both directions.  Please note the extra fabric allowed to sew the diagonal seam under the main drape to hold the gathers in place and hide the seam.  You may notice there are subtle changes to the pattern from the original #PatternPuzzle post.  I have increased the amount of gather on the left side of the pattern and widened the neckline to a boat like shape.  Note that when you are joining front and back sections when adding drape you many need to manipulate them a little to keep them reasonably straight to not distort the pattern shape.


The final patterns below indicate where the fabric is gathered to create drape and get the pattern to fit together.  If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask in the comments section below.


Enjoy!  :)

MAKERS
Petit Main Sauvage - similar but different.

15 comments:

  1. I'm glad to see the finished design! I didn't picture the twist, but now see how it all goes together.

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  2. Thx Julie. I must admit I had my doubts but I think this is a good place to start. I'm sure there would still me many changes to make in the first toile. :)

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  3. Wow! This is truly amazing! The final look would suit many body shapes I imagine.

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  4. Thanks Lovenicky. :) There are so many versions of this in the fashion market place at the moment it was an easy choice for the #PatternPuzzle.

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  5. I wish this pattern was clearer in where to twist, what part is sewn to what. I just can't seem to find the way :(

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    1. Hi Alyen, thx for dropping by the blog. The twist is in the appearance of the gathered drape. There is no twist action in the actual fabric. You would gather the top and bottom sections then sew them to the centre piece then tuck under and gather the centre piece into the armhole shape. Hope this helps. :)

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  6. Yes!! I see it now. And it's size 12! (My size) where can I purchase it and download it?

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    1. Sorry Alyen, there is no pattern, this blog offers pattern making instructions. It is to help you make your own patterns. One day I may get a chance to make them to sell online. For the moment it's about teaching pattern making. :)

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  7. After all I took the challenge and purchased and downloaded all I could from the website (I have never sewn anything or made any patterns in my life) but I tried anyway and I am amazed at what I have created.

    It is not high end, as I don't own a serger or over stitching machine, just my basic Singer, but the end result looks amazing.

    I would totally recommend your method and purchasing your instructables with no hesitation. If you are interested in seeing what my first try at making a pattern and materializing it into this avant garde twisted drape top I would gladly show you. More than a sample is my new favorite garment and I will wear it forever!

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    1. Thanks you so much Alyen for the compliments and for coming back to me and letting me know about your project. I would love to see your top if you are willing to share photos.

      You can send them to me direct: enquiries@studiofaro.com or post them on our FB page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Studio-Faro/464204903600087
      There is also a link to our FB page at the top of the blog, right hand side. I can hardly wait. :)

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  8. I don't know whether or not you're still reading the comments on this page but I just used this tutorial for a different kind of top.
    The blog post is here: http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.nl/2015/02/quite-similar-yet-very-different.html

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    1. Hi Lauriana, I love your version on your blog. A very flattering style. :)

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  9. OMG, I love this top!!! So want to make it!!! I have been sewing for years, but have no experience with pattern manipulation. From other people responses it looks like instruction are plentiful - but not for me. Can somebody help? I will pay for step-by-step instructions or ready pattern. Or am I missing something?

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    1. Hi Anya, thanks for dropping by. Hopefully in the future I will be able to supply more detailed instructions or video when I have completed some online pattern making courses for the website.

      In the meantime why not try something more straight forward to get to understand this way of making drape as this one is very complex. If you go to the new blog location on the website you will see other designs that may be good to start with. http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzle-tucked-drape-tops

      I'd be very happy to give you one-on-one tuition or guidance. I do that a lot already here in Sydney, face to face, running pattern making workshops and private tuition. But, I'm guessing you're not in Australia? We can do it by Skype tutorial; as you work your way through the pattern. My private tuition rates are available on request (enquiries@studiofaro.com) and I have Paypal facilities for ease of payment. Alternatively, wait for me to expand on this work in future training worksheets on the website. http://www.studiofaro.com/pattern-making-worksheets

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