14 April 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Twist Panel Jersey Dress

Once again the much favoured Jersey Twist is featured on the Saturday morning #PatternPuzzle.  A big thank you to all our fans that come along to play and watch.  :)  

This week there is an addition to our #PatternPuzzle post with the inclusion of imperial measurements for our US fans.  Huge thanks to Lisa at Poldapop Designs for pointing out how much easier this would make the teaching of our worksheets in the states.  Lisa is one of the first teachers to take on our Basic Skirt Draft Worksheet as a teaching tool in her classes.  The results have been positive so we will work hard to provide imperial equivalents in all our pattern making instructions.  :)


If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

Working with your close fitting knit block:

  1. Mark in a wide neckline on the back dress and the asymmetric neckline on the front, connecting to the right side panel seam.
  2. Taper the side seams of the skirt area by 3cm (1 1/4"), from hip to hem.  
  3. Mark in the panel seams from neckline to hemline. 
  4. Please note that I have placed the panel seam slightly outside the bust point hoping to achieve a more elegant placement (possible 2-3cm/3/4-1 1/4").  
  5. Use the panel seam to make the most flattering shape on the body.   You can exaggerate the waist shaping through to a generous hip shape to achieve a curvaceous effect.
  6. Mark in the drape lines from the twist position on the panel seam in the direction of the twist (dashed lines). 
  7. To prevent distortion in sewing, place notches to control the sewing of the twists and all seams.  
  8. The cap sleeve is a 5-6cm (2-2 3/8") extension on the  shoulder line with a 5mm (3/16") lift over the shoulder point.
  9. Shape the underarm point to enable flow through in cutting and making.
  10. Shape the CB seam in the waist area equivalent to a back dart of 2-3cm (3/4-1 1/4").



Number all your separate pattern pieces before cutting and spreading for the twist drape.  How much you add to each opening will depend on the fabric you use.  I suggest a safe range of 4-6cm per opening.  Use 6cm for light fabrics or a more curvaceous figure.  Use 4cm for heavier fabrics or slimmer figures.  Making a toile in the same fabric as your final sample garment is essential.  Any variation in fabrics may alter the fit and drape of your garment.


 The final pattern pieces below are the complete pattern.  You may add a bind for the neckline and armhole or simply overlock and turn the edges.
The straight grain stays with the CB line in the back pattern.  The grain in the front dress has been located to place the majority of the drape on the bias grain.  This improves the drape behaviour of the twist in the final sample.


And finally a big thank you to all our fans for spreading the word and sharing our work.  Let us know if you are making any of our #PatternPuzzle designs and we happy to provide technical assistance via the comments section.  Enjoy!  :)

12 comments:

  1. That looks like a really flattering design Anita. But to be honest, I'd actually be pretty excited if I get the cap sleeve right!!

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    1. Thx Lesley. :) It all has to start somewhere and a cap sleeve is a great place to start. How is your pattern making going?

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  2. Oh my gosh! I have a royal blue fabric! I think it would be so good for that...making it...will keep u posted :)

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    1. Wow, this style would be fabulous in royal blue. Can hardly wait to see your photos. :)

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  3. I still cannot understand how to make the twist. Is it possible to give some master class, some pictures of the process? Please :)

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    1. Hi Svetlana. Thx for dropping by. I will try to make a photo tutorial for twists in the coming week. :) Like our Facebook page for first notification when we post.

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  4. Hello, newbie pattern cutter Here! Does this mean you need a double sided fabric ? Also, after the twist how do you complete the seams ? What kind of fabric do you recommend ?

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    1. Hi There, thx for dropping by. This dress is made up of double twists so double-sided fabric not required. The seams leading into the twists are a little weird to sew. Use notches to make sure your not distorting the fabric and sew as far as you can into the twist. As far as fabric goes, only use two-way stretch jersey with some elastane (spandex/lycra). In the US I think they call it four-way stretch. As long as the fabric has the same stretch on both the warp and weft. Hope this helps. :)

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    2. Absolutely fantastic, edgy design! Thanks for sharing your ideas.

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  5. Been trying to find you on facebook to like your page, but there are lots of well suiteds! Do you have a link?

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    1. Hi CC, thx for dropping by. :) It's Studio Faro on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/studiofaroau/ Well-suited is the name of the blog only. New work is now on the website blog: http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited Let me know if you have any questions.

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