Grading Women's Patterns

 Although it may appear complicated, grading sewing patterns is based on a few simple rules with definite numbers added to very specific parts of the pattern for each size up and down the size chart.  These rules are used in repeat for all garments within a category (mens, women's or children).  The image below is of a black fitted dress block graded from Size 8 to Size 10 by cutting through the crucial grade points and adding the extra required to go up one size in the pattern.  The white lines are these crucial grade points where the extra is added.  It is the example I use in my pattern making classes to assist in the understanding of where patterns grow between sizes.

You'll find all the blog post detail on my website blog 'wellsuited'.

Trouser Block - Fitting Toile

So often I'm asked how I make my fitting toile's for Trouser Blocks, so I'd thought I'd put together a short post with some detail. Many of the points are small but essential for a good #FirstFitting. You can access a download of my Trouser Block here. I've also uploaded a worksheet that covers the detail for the first stage of fitting the trouser block. The PDF worksheet includes detail instructions and technical diagrams to take you through every step of the process.

Click through to 'well-suited' for all the fitting detail.

Stretch Skirt Block and Design Options

Following on from the Skirt Block and Design Options post I've separated skirt designs that use a stretch skirt block to start your pattern development. You can use my skirt block to make a stretch skirt block to use with all these pattern puzzle posts. Some of them have been sampled and those sample posts are also included here.

Click through to 'well-suited', the website blog, for all the pattern making goodness!

Design Options for my Skirt Block

This is another in the post series where I curate my many blog posts so you can use them to self-train at your own pace. This post is focussed on my basic skirt block and I've listed all the pattern puzzle posts that use this block. Because there are so many posts, I've decided to separate the designs that need a stretch skirt block and I'll be featuring them in a separate post. Also my more demanding drape skirt patterns will be posted separately.

Jump over to the well-suited Blog for the full post detail.

For Facebook devotees I have a group of STUDIO FARO MAKERS where you can post your creations and comments about pattern puzzles and well-suited blog posts.

Easy Pattern Making - No Block Required

When I look at the vast amount of pattern making posts I've blogged since 2013, I'm overwhelmed! So I've no idea how you're all coping out there. I'm going to make an attempt to curate some of the posts into different categories so you can use them for a little gentle pattern making. Many of you ask for online training, so this isn't a bad place to start by working your way through the accumulated knowledge in these posts. Here I'll be highlighting some of my posts that are particularly friendly for the beginner pattern maker.

More detail here...

Fitting Commercial Patterns - FBA

Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers. This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers. I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.

You'll find all the post details here.

Fascinated by Pleating

I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres.  Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing.  I plan to investigate and demonstrate the Sun-ray Circle and the Mushroom Pleat Rectangle in this first series.

The first three posts in the series are here:

Prep for Permanent Pleating 101

Patterns for Pleating Project 101

Cut, Hang and Hem before Pleating 101

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Pattern Puzzle - CJ Drape Skirt

This weeks pattern puzzle is an update of a Charles James drape skirt design.  I have used my Skirt Block to begin this development.

For the story of the week and all the pattern making detail for the C.J. Drape Skirt, jump across to the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Cowl Tube Top

It's a mean thing to present the fans with a rectangle as a #PatternPuzzle and expect them to describe the garment.  In my defence I did include a couple of very small notches as a clue.  In the end Mioara was able to produce an almost exact image of the idea in knit fabric. I think we may have been reading the same pattern making books.  ;)

I found this image on pinterest but have had no luck finding the original source material.  If anyone knows the origin of this piece I would love to be able to include the correct information here.

All the pattern making instructions have been moved to the webiste blog. :)

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Seamed Cowl Dress

ALL THE DETAIL FOR THE SEAMED COWL CAN BE FOUND ON THE NEW BLOG.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Dolman Coat

ALL THE DETAIL FOR THE DOLMAN COAT POST CAN BE FOUND ON THE NEW BLOG.  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - The Japan Skirt - no block required!

The Japan Skirt - PDF Sewing Pattern.

Rectangle skirts are nothing new.  What maybe new is the way you work your rectangle.  This particular pattern has been hanging on my pattern rail for at least 8 years.  Originally developed for merino ponti, grading up and down in sizes allows you to cut this pattern in a variety of knit and woven fabrics.

You'll find thePDF Sewing Pattern on the website.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - ‘The Blank' by Ruth E Richman 1948

So it's a weird one this week.  Over sixty years old and born of a time that valued efficiency in manufacture over effective use of resources.  Patent #2,454,208, invented by Ruth E Richman in 1946, was filed as:

'An object of the invention is to simplify the manufacture of blouses, coats and similar garments by constructing them from a blank consisting of a single piece of material.'

And Ruth was not alone.  We have located at least six different patents, spanning turn of the century to the 1960's, that focused specifically on one-piece patterns that minimised the time spent in manufacture.  We have preciously showcased a The Patent Blouse that similarly features a one-piece pattern with minimal seaming for greater efficiencies in production.  So certainly a popular idea at the time.

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO SHRUG

Here is the anonymous shape that was posted on our Facebook Page.  A self-drafted rectangle with three notches - that's all they got!  And they were very creative with the information.  Have a look at the comments!  And this is the Vintage Pattern (now reissued as Simplicity 8452) that started me off on a quest to make and understand how a simple, self-drafted rectangle shape becomes this elegant top?!?  

You'll find all the pattern making detail on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - TUCKED TEE

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape, it's definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

Find all the pattern making instructions on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com

Pattern Puzzle - Off-the-shoulder Twist Top

Using a Studio Faro knit block I trace out the front and back blocks with side seams facing each other with a minimum 6cm gap.  Also trace out the knit sleeve that belongs to the block.  You'll find the rest of the pattern making information on the website blog.

www.studiofaro.com