31 March 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Double Drape Tee

A big thank you to everyone who came by our Facebook Page on Saturday to play the #PatternPuzzle. You were all able to identify most parts of the pattern but found the shape at the neckline confusing.  Once you turn the pattern up the right way you'll see the large open shape is in fact two pieces of drape that overlap.

This currently popular style is featured in many fashion collections.  The drape from the left side of the top tucks under the right shoulder drape and is attached into the right armhole seam.


Using the Knit Block I have set out the Pattern Plan below with the dashed lines indicating where the drape will be added for both sides of the garment.  
Securing the left side drape in the armhole seam is the feature that holds the whole design together.  The dominant fold in the right side drape extends through to the high hip.  The back and sleeve patterns have little change with a slight neckline alteration.


When opening up the front pattern to include the extra fabric you will need to make extra space in the large right side drape to allow the left side to fit underneath and attach to the armhole.  The amount to add in each opening will depend on the fabric you use for the style.  If it is a light weight jersey I would suggest adding around 150% for the gather.  If your fabric is a heavier jersey perhaps us e only 80-100% extra fabric.


With these more complex drape styles it is important to consider the placement of your grain line in relation to the direction of the drape.  In this case I have done my best to keep the gathered drape on the  bias grain for the best effect.


Wishing you all a load of fun trying out this new style.  Let me know if you have any questions by email or through the comments section below.  Enjoy :)

MAKERS
Petit Main Sauvage - similar but different.

17 comments:

  1. Just found your blog this week. Love to see all the drafts. Thank you for sharing this.

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    1. Hi Sigrid. Thanks for following and I'm so pleased to hear you enjoy the blog. Visit the Facebook Page to join the #PatternPuzzle conversation on Saturday mornings. There is link at the top of the page. :)

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    2. This week I have tried this draft. It is on my blog http://sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.nl/2014/05/double-drape-tee.html

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    3. That's great news. You seem to have mastered the pattern cutting. Are you happy with your top?

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  2. I look at this wonderful pattern and I think they are really lucky to be able to study these wonders so .... thank you ...

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    1. Thx Sartoria Rapida for being part of our great audience. :)

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  3. Another very current style. Love it.

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    1. Thx Vicki for your generous comments. :)

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  4. I always like to see what goes into the pattern puzzle designs. This one looks very flattering!

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    1. Thx Julie. Just waiting to see if we have any sewers willing to give it a try. Just love see the finished product. :)

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  5. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've recently become more interested in drafting my own patterns. This blog is a big help!

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    1. Thanks Nancy. :) I have also enjoyed your blog posts. Especially the on about the weighted blanket. What a great way to keep the cold out.

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  7. Hi. Discovered this blog about a week ago and loving it! I like seeing how you work out the puzzles. I've also given the double drape top a try and am really happy with how my top came out.

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    1. This is the first StudioFaro pattern that I've tried.

      Just for clarification, I used a personally drafted knit sloper as the base for this. I did feel there was a bit more fullness around the ruched shoulder (right, in my case), which I "tied back" with a piece of brown pleather, which nicely matches the olive green of the shirt.
      I finished the top edges with a thin facing that I sewed to the inside of the shirt.

      I think I got a nice fit. I have worn it to the office this morning and got many compliments. I would be happy to share pictures - please tell me where to email them to.
      Sorry to hear that Sigrid was not as satisfied with how her version came out. (I checked out her comments/photos on her blog)
      ronibarr(at)gmail(dot)com

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    2. Hi Roni and thanks for dropping by the blog. That is wonderful news that your top turned out well. Making brand new patterns is always an adventure and never the same as using a commercial pattern that has been tested and verified. To have made a new pattern and be able to wear the first toile/sample is amazing.

      In the fashion industry the first pattern is never the final pattern. It appears that many sewers think that if the pattern doesn't work first time it is a failure, without any understanding of the multitude of samples the pattern companies and fashion manufacturers make before signing off on a new design.

      Thanks so much for sharing. :) I look forward to seeing the photos of your drape top.

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    3. Hi Anita,

      Thanks. Photos are on my blog post - here - http://cookiedoughandjeans.blogspot.co.il/2014/12/the-double-drape-t-shirt.html

      Thanks

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