27 January 2014

Pattern Puzzle - Homage to Charles James 1950

A huge thanks for the fabulous effort from everyone over the weekend to solve this strange #PatternPuzzle.   This week we featured three pattern pieces as part of a garment, rather than the usual all-in-one pattern piece.


The diagram below shows how these different shapes sew together to make a panelled yoke in an evening skirt. 



The puzzle started when I came across this amazing gem in the archives of the Metropolitan Museum in New York.  It is an elegant and beautifully design by Charles Worth from 1950.  After working out the detail in the seams and fitting, I  decided to alter the fit and develop a more comfortable style as I am not a huge fan of high waistlines.


The evening skirt sketched out below is a simplified version of the Charles James design.  I also decided to eliminate the darts into panel seams in the yoke area. 


Included below is the detail of the pattern plan based on a basic skirt block:
  • The centre back seam features some shaping under the seat that flows into the godet (green).  
  • All the waist darts and side seam shaping have been worked into the yoke panel seams.  
  • The side back panels of the skirt are attached to the front skirt, eliminating the side seam.  
  • The invisible zip will be in the yoke seam in the back as shown in the sketch.


All the pattern pieces for the evening skirt are set out below.  Adding a facing for the waist and maybe even lining would finish this skirt off well.


Hope you enjoy the post and let me know if you have any questions about this pattern.  Enjoy :)




17 comments:

  1. Fun! I'm such a Charles James fan :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's such an elegant skirt. I need to know more about this designer. ๐Ÿ˜Š

      Delete
  2. Lovely skirt! I recently bought a Charles James skirt pattern on Ebay, but it's nowhere near as elaborate as this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thx Julie. Would love to see the pattern. I do love the idea of the designer pattern.

      Delete
  3. Replies
    1. Hi Gail. It is a devine skirt. Let's catch up soon. :)

      Delete
  4. I really love it Anita, it's very swellegant!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Fabulous. I want to make me one, but maybe a bit shorter.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Kimberley. Would be stunning just below the knee, elegant 40's. :)

      Delete
  6. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry, accidentally removed your comment Polina. Don't seem to be able to reinstate? Made reply in the next comment. Thanks :)

      Delete
  7. In picture name Charles Worth. Is it mistake ? Polina

    Thanks so much for dropping by Polina and letting us know about the typo in the post image. Indeed it is Charles James and not Charles Worth. all corrected now. Thanks again. :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. A lovely skirt,ive fallen in love with the details in 30's to 50's clothing.The seamlines,the embellishments are all so unique.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hi Michelle. So pleased you enjoyed the post. I have found the metmuseum.com site full of great treasures. Many more Charles James designs. Such masters. :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. me encanta la expilicacion ya que vas colocando los patrones no hablo ingles pero se entiende

    ReplyDelete