16 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Drape Shift

Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.  

Some of you may remember the Cowl Tee with Drape and Draped Tee from way back that feature the same kind of drape seam as this weeks puzzle.


So the first question:  'Do we try to make this pattern from a knit or woven block?'  

The sketch below does suggest a light weight drapey fabric and for my first attempt I would use a one-way stretch knit fabric.  Probably a Cotton/Rayon blend so we have the cotton for breathability and comfort, and the rayon for drape.  If all works out well you might try the slightly more complex pattern making required to cut this style from a woven.


For my first development I have used my close fitting knit block and dropped the side seams down to dress length.  The detail in the Pattern Plan below includes:
  • relaxing off the block fit to allow for a one-way stretch knit and looser fit in this shift.
  • dropping the underarm point by about 1.5cm.
  • adding a 'V' neck front and back.
  • planning gape darts in the front neckline to tighten the shape of the 'V', to hold it close to the body.
  • placement of the drape seam working from the CF toward the right hip.
  • extra shaping on the CB seam to flatter the figure.


The diagram below outlines the original shape of the knit block used and shows exactly where the extra fabric for the drape is placed.   It also illustrates the move that lifts the front drape seam line so as to maintain the drape seam in it's original place and length.  Please note that the hemline needs a clean curve to enable a quality hem finish.  To finish the neckline and the armhole I would probably use a 6mm (1/4") bind that could be finished outside (showing) or inside (stitch only shows).


If you have your own knit block at home, give this a try and let me know how you go.  Happy to answer any of your questions as you work through your pattern and first toile.  Feel free to email me direct or leave your comments on this post.

Enjoy :)

MAKERS

22 comments:

  1. Looks like a lovely dress for summer! Up here in the northern hemisphere, we had 6" of snow last night, so this helps me dream about spring sewing projects.

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  2. Yes Julie, the opposite seasons thing is interesting when you are blogging/chatting around the world. All I'm thinking about is how to make the lightest, loosest linen frocks to wear over the scorching xmas break. We will be spending most of the festive season in rural NSW. Stinking Hot most of the time! :/
    What about this dress as a merino jersey pinafore for winter?

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    1. Up a bit further north in NT, they'd been nice all year round.

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    2. Yes it's a great style for the heat you get up there. Are you thinking of making one?

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  3. Hope you are enjoying your break. I jet off on Wednesday but have stored these directions as a late January project.

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  4. Hi Gail. My break starts in a few days so busy finishing off the year in the studio. Wishing you a fabulous festive season and a wonderful time in Europe. See you in the New Year. :)

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  5. Hi. I hope I don't sound too much of an idiot in asking this question, but I love wearing drapes, they are my absolute favourite but I am quite new to sewing. And I haven't a clue about pattern making. Would l be able to just enlarge one of your patterns, cut it out and sew it up?
    Thanks in advance!

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  6. Yes I think you could do that with some of these puzzles. I don't think it would end up 'techo perfecto' but I think it would make a great start for a new pattern. So be prepared to throw out the first test sample - all in the pursuit of great learning. I'm happy to help as you go along so feel free to comment or email direct. Do you know which style you would like to try? Anita

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  7. I love this Pattern puzzle, it just helped me solve my own little pattern issue. Thankyou very much Anita! your work is definitely very much appreciated!

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    1. Thx Waseema. That is exactly what these posts are all about. I am so pleased to hear. :)

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  8. I have been sewing and creating for 48 plus years. Love to sew for our grand daughters. I am ready for a new challenge, and this may be it. the one question that I have is what is a "woven block"? Thanks for all the patterns and ideas.

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    1. Hi and thanks for dropping by our blog. My apologies, the 'woven block' is my shorthand for the womens fitted block or sloper (same thing). It is the starting point for many of the pattern puzzles. This one however is cut on a knit block specifically drafted for two-way stretch fabric. Have you ever worked with blocks/slopers before?

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  9. I love this pattern and am in the midst of attempting it did you make it up ? What did you find if you did? I have made mine in a two way stretch and have made it above the knee. I wil link your page to my blog when I post it.

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    1. Hi Sue, thanks for letting me know. I didn't cut this one to sample so I am very interested to see your post. Maybe your efforts will get me there. :)

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  10. Hey Anita! Here's my version with a breakdown of my work process. My fabric wasn't ideal (we talked about that on FB) but I'm willing to give this pattern a secnd chance! Check it out: http://titesmains.wordpress.com/2015/01/03/encore-un-casse-tetes/ Thanks again :D

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    1. Hi Julia, thx for letting me know about your post and thanks for the links back to the blog. Your dress looks great in the sweat shirt fabric. I would be interested to see how it draped with a softer knit if you fancy making again. I will be sharing on FB later in the week. :)

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  11. Just added a translation button! It's in the right column at the bottom.

    I am willing to try the woven version in a very nice drapey fabric I have here but still undecided - do you think the drape of the fabric and the bias-cut body of the dress would compensate the absence of side seams/darts I could take in? That was, I feel, the biggest problem with my first try (even if I admit my choice of fabric wasn't ideal).

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    1. Thanks for the translate button, things make so much more sense. :) Regarding the drape shifts I think perhaps you would prefer a more fitted style pattern if you like to accentuate the body. If you look at the recent Vivienne Drape Dress you will get some drape with a closer, flattering fit. Let me know what you think. :)

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  12. Hi, I had an attempt of this dress and made it from a stretch jersey. It didn't end up looking like the sketch but I am happy with the result. Its on the blog http://suessewbynme.com/2015/01/18/a-draped-shift-take-1/

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    1. Hi Sue, thanks so much for letting me know about your Drape Shift sample and your link back to this blog. :) I think your dress looks great and would be perfect for our extremely hot summer days. If you are thinking of making adjustments to the pattern for your next sample I suggest a narrower hemline to push the emphasis onto the drape seam.

      And now that I have seem two samples made (you and Julia) from these instructions I am thinking of some changes to the above post. I would increase the length of the drape seam to the mid thigh area. And I would taper the hemline by 3cm back to 0cm at the hip. Thank you so much for testing our ideas and helping us to perfect our pattern making instructions. :)

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  13. Your welcome, thanks for the constant challenges I can't wait to try this drape again with adjustments .

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    1. My pleasure Sue. :) So sorry I missed your comment earlier.

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