30 December 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Balenciaga Evening Overblouse

There were great ideas on our FB page last weekend while our fans were working through the detail to the #PatternPuzzle below.


From the first moment I clapped my eyes on this little beauty I have been deeply in love.  Never far from my mind, I had made several attempts to understand this self-drafted style.  Finally I have something to start with.  

My first ideas were based on a flat, geometric sketch as featured in the image below.  I could see how a slightly smaller hem circumference would catch on the high hip and create those beautiful drapes.


I then attempted to draw an accurate trade sketch of the design to try and place the design features in the right place to maintain proportion.  In particular the location of the front yoke seam is important as it is the same level as the armholes.  Getting this right will be important in keeping the style both attractive and comfortable.


In the end I decided to transplant the geometric shape onto my Dartless Kimono Block for wovens.  What works here for me is I can see how the shape sits in relation to the armhole, yokeline and overarm line.  I have planned the front pattern parts in red and the back in green.  Please note that I have made the hem circumference of the top smaller so it will catch on the high hip.

When tracing off all the pattern shapes I wanted to keep as many pieces as possible together to minimise seams/sewing and hopefully produce another of those one-piece patterns.  Below is a diagram of half the pattern with the conventional parts of the original block pattern sketched in to give everyone a sense of how this pattern relates to the body.


The final full pattern shape is featured below with cutting instructions and all pattern markings.  The straight grain is parallel with the centre back in this style.  For fabric selection I would like to suggest a crepe weave of almost any fibre origin (silk crepe-de-chine, polyester crepe, light wool crepe).  The flexibility in the crepe weave will work well with the demands of this design.  Any one way stretch jersey will also make up well.


For many of our longer serving fans you my recognise some features in this puzzle as similar to the Retro Wrap and Retro Shrug from earlier posts.  

As this is the last post for 2013 I would like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a fabulous New Year.  
Enjoy.  :)

11 comments:

  1. I had this garment on a pin board for quite a while, I loved the simplicity of it! Thanks for taking it to this level for me! Love all of these pattern puzzles!

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  2. Thanks so much. I did find this in Pinterest first then I went to the Met museum archive for the back view. I couldn't solve it without that back view. 😊 do you think you will try to make it?

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  3. I would love to try and make this, it's very lovely! Seems quite tricky, but I hope i can figure it out. Let me know if you ever decide to make a step by step tutorial!

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    1. Hi Dunja. Thanks for letting me know you are interested. I am working my way through some more detailed pattern making instructions for many of the most popular posts. This one is on the list so hopefully there will be something in the next few weeks. I'm trying a few different styles and they will be announced on our website and facebook page as they become available. :)

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  4. Love this top...it's looks simple but incredibly interesting. I appreciate your hard work and your website.

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    1. Thanks :) I'm continually flattered by the responses I get to the blog. Enjoy :)

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  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  6. nossa tudo de bom essa modelagem;quando que vou chegar á excutar uma modelagem assim?

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    1. Hello Uandra, thanks for dropping by. I tried to translate your question but it is not clear. Please ask again. :)
      Olá E, obrigado por deixar cair perto. Tentei traduzir sua pergunta, mas não está claro. Por favor, pergunte novamente. :)

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