21 October 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Drape and Gather Jersey Dress

Of all the #PatternPuzzle solutions offered on Saturday I think I like Julie Eilber's the best - 'Some kind of Aussie Crocodile.'  Such a strange shape and definitely a challenge to work out.  But the gang turned up on Saturday and again on Sunday and solved all of the detail as a team.  


As one pattern piece for the front it is a strange and very wasteful shape.  Indulgent and fun for a one-of but not so acceptable for production.  
It is more likely that it would be cut in three separate pieces with seams hidden under the large drape tucks in the bust and hip area.

The sketch below shows the position of all the large drape tucks and the two areas of gathering hidden behind the drape.  To a small degree two of the drape tucks continue around the back for a little detailed interest.


The pattern plan has been worked out for a two-way stretch block and will make a close fitted garment.   The close fit is also needed to keep the drape in place.  The blue arrows show you the direction of the large drape tucks.  The red lines are for the front  - solid lines for pattern shape and broken lines for the areas where extra fabric will be added.  The green lines show the small amount of alternation to happen to the back block.  The sleeve is very simple finishing just above the elbow with a slim fit to match the dress.


Below I have redrawn the complex front pattern piece with all the fold and gather lines, what I call the bones of the pattern.  Both areas of gather have a seam that is hidden behind one of the drape tucks.


 The back pattern pieces below are different for the right and left side and therefore need to be cut R.S.U ( right side up) to get the detail matching on the right sides of the dress.


So another fun jersey style from Studio Faro if you are feeling adventurous with your patterns.  Has anyone made a jersey dress recently?  We would love to hear about your adventures in jersey and are happy to answer any of your queries.

Enjoy :)


2 comments:

  1. Thanks Rhonda. Really love your Prism Top pattern making post. Very summer, great for Australia at the moment. :)

    ReplyDelete