19 August 2013

Pattern Puzzle - RETRO WRAP


Wandering around in Pinterest I repinned the images below from Red Point Tailor! to my #cuttthatfrock album.  I was fascinated with the strange little pattern diagram on the back of the envelope.  The images claim that this simple shape would make that wrap top and that you can wear it wrapped from the front or the back.  Mmmm... big claims for a simple shape and such sophisticated drawings!  Convinced I could scale this up to make sense of it, I imported the image in to illustrator.



I stared at the diagram for some time before tracing the shape and experimenting in paper by scaling up.  I was fairly certain that those triple notches indicate the sleeve but the rest was really confusing.


This is the image below that I posted on FB for last Saturday Morning's Pattern Puzzle.


Turns out that my first attempt at this pattern was only partially scaled and as a result it would not fit on the workroom dummy. When draped on the half-scale dummy it looked like a longer coat style??  Have a look at that CB seam and try to locate it on the pattern.  This self-drafted style one is a bit of a brain twister, believe me. 


Well really missed the boat here, but I did develop a better understand of the parts of the pattern and what needed to be altered for the next sample.  



Some further calculations and I decide to scale this first pattern up again by 50%.
I am now certain of the location of the CB to elbow line along that back sleeve seam that becomes a back yoke.  I can use my own measurement for this part of the body (60cm) to estimate the growth needed in this piece to finally fit.


In my second toile....... the fit is more life-like and not so far from the original illustration on the pattern envelope.  I have added a waistband and tie ends to complete the fitting.  I also tried to wear it back-to-front as suggested on the pattern envelope and it almost choked me! 


Overall I am fairly happy with the sample and would suggest you individually check the sleeve width to suit your own forearm circumference.  I found this sample loose in the sleeve opening and removed 4cm off each side.  I have some ideas to finesse the fit that I will share in a future post.

With a few calculations and checks I can now give you the measurements to construct this shape and try your own.  The measurements below will suit up to Size 12.  At this stage I'm not 100% sure how to grade this through the sizes but happy to develop a grading plan on request.  
NB - two-way stretch only to get the best out of this wrap style.

Small sleeve opening alteration recommended.




















To make this up - this is how it works:






These are the briefest of making notes.  Please don't hesitate to email me if you have any questions.  Email me. :)

As it happens this story has much in common with posts by feathertysews about the Dalsland Coat and uniformnatural's post about the Origami Wrap Sweater.  Have a look and let me know what you think?  More on this later…..
Enjoy :)
http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited

MAKERS
Red Point Tailor
How good is that?
Petit Main Sauvage

18 comments:

  1. You managed! Congratulations!
    I was making so many try outs - having only the final garment picture was not so easy. Then I came along the pattern envelope picture of the patterns - it was not so easy as well... Now I will make it!
    Wonderful!

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  2. Hi Beata, just realised that you are Red Point Tailor BL. Thanks for providing the inspiration for this puzzle. Quite the brain teaser!

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  3. Thanks for putting this puzzle up this weekend. I was stumped but now I'd love to make it.

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  4. Thanks to RhondaBuss and Velosewer. Would love to see the results!

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    1. Just finished my grey version so I'll wear it on the weekend with jeans.

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    2. You are so productive! Do we get to have a look? ;)

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  5. thank you so much for making this public. i wanted to sew this top ever since i first saw it.

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  6. My Pleasure. So happy that many people find it interesting. :)

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  7. Definately going to give this a try. I'd seen this pinned too, and pondered on it. Thanks for working it out. x

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  8. If any of you have similar pinned challenges, please send them to me. This was such a great idea to work with I'm looking for something like this next week. :)

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  9. You've done a great job, thank you! I'd like to give it a try, intriguing desing. *^v^*

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  10. Thanks B, I hope you enjoy making your wrap top. Follow this blog for more Pattern Puzzle Solutions. Or join us on our Facebook page to be involved in solving the puzzle - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Studio-Faro/464204903600087

    Same again next week. :)

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  11. Oh I like this! My first thought was to see if I could locate this in my vintage pattern collection, to no avail. I'll have to give it a try!

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  12. Hi Connie. Love the idea of your Retro Pattern Collection. Did you see the facebook post on Saturday? There is another (similar) retro idea that will be solved in detail later this morning. In ten minutes in fact. Enjoy! Do come along next Saturday and see if you can solve the #PatternPuzzle. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Studio-Faro/464204903600087

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  13. I love this. Thanks.
    I was looking for a smaller size though and just thought I'd ask if you had done a size graph for it. If not, I'll work it out myself. Just thought I'd ask first. Thanks again!! :)

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    1. Haven't published any notes about grading so far. But you could reduce all measurements by 1cm each for each size reduction. I would suggest that the measurements in the post are for an Australian Size 12, UK Size 14 and I think that translates to US size 8??? This is a crude measure but I think it will work. Probably best not to use the good fabric for your first sample. Happy to provide more detail if needed. :)

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  14. I've just made this top and I love it.
    I blogged about it here: http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.nl/2014/08/the-retro-wrap.html and obviously, I linked to this post

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    1. Hi Lauriana. Thx for the link back to this post. :) The vintage style really suits your figure type and your Retro Wrap is beautiful. I have scheduled a share of your post on our FB page early next week. :)

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